Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #78

testing the shoe covers

Last week it was mostly finishing what I could, to wear the costume to the Cosplay Photoshoot. I will try to update everyday what I made. Because time was very limited, and I didn't want to con crunch, I decided not to make a few items yet. Not finish the gloves, not make the smaller buckles (for the shoes and jacket cuffs), and a few finishings on the hat and jacket. Also, the 3D teacup and saucer will be finished at a later time.

First I made the shoes. After cutting the pattern in the cerise grosgrain, I cut the bias tape from the burgundy satin. This time the bias tape is 4cm, for an end result of 1cm trim.

shoe cover parts

I sewed the heel seam, the back seam and the two darts with a backstitsch, and then started to add the bias tape, with a backstitch, 1cm from the top edge, with the help of a gauge. The shoe "flaps" are bigger than the actual shoe flaps, so I cut the extra in 2mm EVA foam scraps. When I reached the edge of the added EVA foam, I sewed the bias tape to the 3 layers: the top cerise, the middle EVA foam and the bottom cerise. The sharp curves were the trickiest, I had to unpick the first try, and stretch the tape the most I could at the inset curves, and add tape at the outset curves, so when I turned the tape, I wouldn't bunch too much, either way. After sewing the top bias tape seam, I folded and whip stitched the foam sandwich part, as I would for normal bias tape.

glueing the heel covers

I first glued the heels. I first cut the slits where the heel meets the shoe, and folded and glued them to itself with contact glue. On the first shoe, I started by pushing the fabric over the heel, and glueing the top allowance. Then I folded the fabric back, making the bottom fold, and then straightening it again, after I applied the glue. But it was a bit fiddly, so, for the second heel, I first made the fold, with the fabric over the heel, added the glue, and glued the bottom first. After that, I turned the fabric over, adjusted it, and added the glue to the top part, and glued it.

glueing the top rim, starting from the back

Then I added glue to the top rim of the back of the shoes, both to the shoes and the inner cerise fabric (on the bias tape back side). I started by glueing the back seam, added glue to the sides, and glued them. 

adding glue to the shoe tops

Then I added a thin layer of glue to the top of the shoes, so the fabric wouldn't bubble. After glueing the top, I marked where the allowance would fold with my nail, and folded it inwards. Bit by bit, I added glue to the shoes and fabric bottom, starting from the heel. When I reached the sides, near the flap, I folded and glued the shoe tips. In one of the shoes, the darts were a bit outside where the shoe curves, so I had to resew them. This time, I finger marked them, and sewed them with a ladder stitch, from the outside. I cut the excess fabric, ironed the dart open, and glued it to the front. The last bits were the front sides, which I tried to stretch as much as I could.

covered shoes

The last part to be glued was the bias tape. Starting from the back, I folded the bias tape over the cerise fabric and the shoe rim, and glued it on the inside. Finally, I glued the cerise inner fabric flap to the shoe flap, then I folded the bias tape inner curve, and glued it on the inside. The shoes are still missing the buckles, I didn't have time make them.

The reason I didn't add contact glue to all of the shoe surface, is because this type of glue tends to sift through, so, it could become visible on the outside. This way, folding the fabric allowances in, added a glueing surface on the rim of the pattern, and ended in cleaner edges.

+ The shoe covers went much as planned, I like making shoe covers.

- Glueing shoe covers is always messy, and there are a few visible glue spots. Also, adjusting the covers was a bit tricky, as the fabric doesn't have much give.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Cut and make the bloomers.

Black Lady - Black Dress #2

 

party invitation, 19th February 1996

26! It's that time of the year again, Cosplay Anniversary!

So, four years until my 30th, and I still don't know which costume to make, to celebrate it. If I have the budget, it will definitely be the Imperial Guard. My life is currently changing, for the better, maybe, maybe, I will.

Looking at my short wishlist list, I have two cosplay wish lists, a short list, of most likely to make or started costumes, and a long wishlist, full of possibilities. Looking at my short list, it could also be Yuuko's Green Dress, which I already started, or Hokuto's Queen Dress, which will also cost a lot, so maybe that one only after the Imperial Guard. Mmmm... the Imperial Guard is getting ahead... I'll seriously think about it. Maybe I'll start with the gloves and looking for boots I could use. I guess this one will be added to my short list sooner than I expected.

Anyway, I haven't been thinking much about it, I have a lot of cosplay stuff in my hands, finishing the Mad Hatter and writing about cosplay for the thesis.

+ One more year, and I'm still here, cosplaying.

- Besides posting online, I'm not doing anything to celebrate.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Finish Hokuto's Mad Hatter! I've been keeping to my schedule, today I'll finish the closures and start sewing the shoe covers. The next week will be dedicated to the remaining white parts, the skirt's hem and the bloomers.

Meanwhile, check the 501st Legion costume section, make a costume breakdown, and start looking for materials, like the boots and the velvets. If I'm allowed to have the helmet 3D printed, I may have recently found someone who can print it for me.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #77

4 shoe cover stages:
1. the rough clingfilm+tape pattern
2. paper traced pattern
3. the fabric cut pattern
4. testing the pattern on the shoe

Although I haven't finished the false jacket closures yet, I finally made the shoe cover patterns. I was so absorbed while doing it, that I forgot to take a pictures of the process. Anyway, this is how I usually make them. I use the clingfilm+tape process, which you can search for tutorials online. I forgot how troublesome it is to make it on your own.

1. My feet aren't symmetrical, so I always make the patterns for the "bad foot", which is my right foot. It's a bit bigger and has a bunyan.
2. I start by putting my base shoe on, and wrapping the shoe and part of the foot in clingfilm. Yes, the kind you use to wrap food with.
3. Then I strategically place tape around the foot and shoe, covering all the area that will become the shoe cover. This shoe has a small flap, which will become bigger with the shoe cover. One can use paper painter's tape or gaffer tape, I have no real preference, I used paper tape on this one, because it was the first I grabbed.
4. With a good marker, I use a Sharpie black marker, trace all the seams and edges of the shoe. Soles, heel, shoe seams and edges.
5. If you're altering or adding to the base shoe, do it around the tracing you made before. Also add darts to any shaper curves or edges, especially if your fabric doesn't have much give. I had to do this for the shoe toes, as this fabric has almost no elasticity.
6. With a small scissors, carefully cut one of the traced seams, I usually cut the back seam, and take the shoe off.
7. Cut the remaining traced lines, including the added shapes and darts.
8. Flatten your pattern the best you can, trace it to the paper and clean the lines.
9. Identify the inner part of the shoe on your paper pattern, on both sides because you're going to mirror it.
10. Trace your pattern twice, mirroring it, to your fabric, and identify the inner part again on the fabric.

I still have to trace the heels, but that's easier to make with the shoe off. Now the pattern is ready to make the shoe covers, but more on that on the next post.

I'm almost finished with the false closures, but I used a bit different method, which ended up different in size to the prototype. I'll have to make one more...

+ This is a simple but accurate method to make shoe covers, I almost never have to make adjustments and the result is quite professional looking.

- I forgot how troublesome this is to make on yourself, unless youre a very thin and flexible person. I'm surely not.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Finish the false closures, trace the heels, cut the bias tape, and cut the extra part of the flap in 2mm EVA foam. 

Yuuko Ichihara - Foxy Lady #2

. red cotton satin, leftover from the kimono

and Chinese dress, for the bow;

. white silky satin, for the blouse and underskirt;

. steel headband, for the fox ears;

. golden lace beads, for the sleeves

Couldn't resist, I had to go downtown, actually to go to an old shoe shop, closing down in two days, in search of a bargain - I got nice and cheap summer sandals - so, as lately my outings have been, I did a bunch of errands, scheduled two covid tests, bought some velvet ribbon for something else, and, at the same shop, a big Chinese trinket shop, Max Biju, I got 4 steel headbands for €1,80, and found those lovely lacy golden beads, perfect for the "buttons" on her blouse. Then I stopped by Flying Tiger, and behaved, bought nothing, and by Feira dos Tecidos. The silky satin, the same as the burgundy for Hokuto's Mad Hatter costume, was, €5,95/m, so I got 3 meters. Simply couldn't resist. Actually I can already go ahead with making the sleeves, but I'll wait until I have the Mad Hatter finished. Meanwhile, whenever I have a few extra €€, I'll slowly buy the remaining materials:

• grey fabric dye
• PVC/ Sintra 3mm sheet
• golden paint
• order foam clay
• order the shoes
• order the dance tights

I'll also probably have to wait until I moved into my new flat, which will most likely be by summertime.

+ The butterflies of starting a new costume!

- I shouldn't have spent money on cosplay materials right now, but "it was beyond my control" ~ Viconde de Valmont.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Finish the Mad Hatter! Buy the remaining materials, focus on college.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #76

the jacket!

The base of the jacket is finished! At the start of the year, I had set a small goal to have the jacket base finished by the end of January. I did it on February 1st. Not bad.

To sew the in set sleeves, I start by turning the jacket inside out. Then I pin the sleeve seam to the jacket's side seam, right side to right side; then the sleeve top to the sleeve opening top. Then I start pinning the bottom curves, which should match fairly well (they did). And finally, start pinning upwards, slightly gathering the top, if needed. Usually you won't see that gathering from the outside, but in these you can see it a bit, which isn't very problematic. Then I sewed the sleeves, with a backstitch, starting from the bottom, working my way up, and then back down. I struggled with keeping the slashes next to each other, and that's why there's more gathering in one of the sleeves. I should have basted them together, before sewing the sleeves. Maybe I'll resew them, and do it this way.

Then I puffed the tulle ruffles, and tacked them to the seam allowance, inside the sleeve, placing it in the top centre. I also made a small blunder, the plan was to sew the sleeve to all of the jacket's 3 layers, the outer fabric, the inner fabric with the boning, and the lining. But somehow, I sewed them only to the outer and inner layers. I plan on turning the seam allowance towards the sleeve, so it puffs a bit more on top,  and after, sew the lining to the inner seam. Because I don't have the inner seam, the lining is still loose, I will fold the jacket's lining in, and slip stitch it to the seam. Later, when I add the sleeve lining, I will stitch it to the jacket lining's folded edge.

Still to do, before the finishing details, add some ribbon to the sleeve top, so it won't slip down, and sew the cuffs. I'm adding the lining much later, but it will make it easier to put the jacket on.

+ it is done, not much more to go, and I looove how it looks.

- there were a few bumps, the slits being a bit too open, because of the way I sewed them on, and the lining's silly mistake. Not really a mistake, just a small blunder.

THE CUNNING PLAN

Make the closures, sew them on, and add the real closures, the big hooks+eyes.

Yuuko Ichihara - Foxy Lady #1

Neko Musume & Yuuko Ichihara,
CLAMP 30th xxxHOLiC reissue, vol.12

COSPLAY ID

CHARACTER Yuuko Ichihara
SOURCE xxxHOLiC manga, CLAMP 30th reissue, by CLAMP
COSTUME Grey Fox dress, in xxxHOLiC, vol.12

 

 

 

 

 

 

COSTUME BREAKOUT

• golden fox ears
• flowy white sleeves, with golden cuffs and collar
• grey strapless bustle dress, with red ribbons
• white petticoat with pointy frills
• golden high heels with golden swirls up the legs
• golden sceptre with large ruby head
• dance tights

This is the cosplayer life... falling in love with an artwork, getting side tracked, and deciding one HAS TO make THAT costume! As I probably stated before, Yuuko Ichihara is one of my very favourite characters. When I first saw the cover of vol.12 reissue of xxxHOLiC, I was mesmerised! Couldn't take my eyes off the dress and I also love Neko Musume's outfit. Maybe I'll make that blouse and vest too, but to wear on a daily basis.

Naturally, I've been obsessing on this picture for weeks now, and also because I spot a nice challenge, I decided to make it. We'll see if before or after her green dress or Hokuto's Umbrella dress.

The thing that got to me was the grey. Grey is a difficult colour, I couldn't decide what kind of fabric I would use. Velvet? A nice sateen? Definitely something luxurious looking. And then I remembered, I still have my kimono tanmono left from Yuuko's Valentine's Kimono corset. It has a beautiful water texture and it's creamy white. I only used a bit for the corset, so I have a lot left, which should be more than enough for this, even though tanmono are very narrow, around 36cm wide. I could dye it grey, but it's silk... am I going to ruin it? I asked at a DIY Kimono group, the answers were mostly positive, I just can't boil it, and I can use my usual Dylon dyes. I'll just probably dye it in the washing machine, so it will dye without patches. For the red ribbons, I can use the kimono and red dress leftovers. The white silky satin is usually available at Feira dos Tecidos, and isn't an expensive fabric.

Did I say challenge? Yes, the ears, collar, cuffs and shoes. I can mount the ears on top of a steel headband, and make them either in high density EVA foam or PVC. PVC is cheaper and easily available, and I've worked with it before. It's stiff, but heat bendable, and 3 mm is a nice thickness for this. But the collar and cuffs need to be in EVA foam and/or foam clay. I'll also need foam clay for the shoes.

I can buy cheap golden dance shoes at AliExpress, they're more comfortable than normal high heels, I also need need a pair (in black) for the green dress. Then add the swirls in foam clay, on top of a thin EVA foam sheet. I'll also need to buy dance tights online, at AliExpress, Snag Tights or similar. I'll go ahead and buy more than one pair, to use others for other cosplays.

The sceptre can have a thin PVC pipe, or a wooden dowel structure, and I'll have to add the thickness. Only the ruby is a work in progress in my mind. Heat bent red acetate? Probably. One thing is certain, I'm not going for clear resin. It's too big and will make the sceptre too heavy.

I need to find a really beautiful yellow gold paint for all of this, need to talk to Paula about it, and buy a new wig for Yuuko. I'm not retiring my other wig, but I need to have a ponytail ready wig, for some of Yuuko's updos, like for the red Chinese dress. Making ponytails and taking them off from wigs, puts a lot of stress on them, so I'd rather have two, one for loose hair styles, and one for updos. I can fake it for this one with hairclips, but I'll do it in the future for sure.

I also need to fix my corset for strapless dresses. I never was very happy with the cups, the ladies are too loose inside them (mine are big, but not that big). And then line it with some white cotton. And... while I'm on it, also fix the red Chinese dress.

+ All in all, because I'm using mostly leftover fabrics, and not so expensive materials, I don't think this costume will be very expensive, it's manageable. 

- The bummer is having to order stuff online, like the foam clay or the shoes and tights. Everything else I can get locally.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Start buying the materials as soon as I have some extra money. But I also need to order the blue waterproof fabric, for Hokuto's Umbrella dress. 

But, as I'm likely to move house soon, all of these projects will have to be made in my new studio! I can wait!

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #75

sleeves with and without the inner volume tulle ruffle

I finally finished sewing the sleeves' side seam. As most of the jacket's seams, I sewed it with a backstitch, matching the pattern lines. I just didn't sew the cuff seam, I'd rather mark and sew it after the sleeves are sewed into the jacket.

DKNY textured knee high socks

Meanwhile, I got my very pretty DKNY white knee high socks out of the sock drawer. I bought them in London, in the 90's, when I had money to buy things like those. I was planning on buying thin over the knee socks online, but then I remembered these, which are still in very nice shape, and are so pretty!

+ sleeves almost done; and I didn't spend any money on socks.

- I find sewing the sleeves so boring, not my favourite parts to sew.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Sew the sleeves to the jacket, tack the tulle ruffle in place and add the stabilising ribbon to the puffed part.