31.10.20

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #25

Due to the big turn in everybody's lives, due to the pandemic, I lost all my sewing mojo, I even struggled to sew doll's clothes. Being at home isn't a problem for me, but, in March, I was about to start a big job, which got postponed to September, and all the uncertainty took it's creative toll.
During these months, besides taking care of my mom and go grocery shopping, I only wanted to watch movies and TV series. The only really useful things I did, was apply for the Doctorate degree, the reason this blog exists, and make social masks, mostly for myself - I didn't want to spend my days hand sewing masks either -, also preparing for eventually to having to wear a mask every day in September. For that, I used mostly cotton fabric from my (usually doll) stash. In August and September I was finally busy with two jobs, in September out of the house, and then, at the end of September my mom moved house, and I naturally helped. No cosplay sewing or will to until now. But now, that I got used to the new studying schedule, have a clearer idea of what I have to do, and go back to sewing is one of the things I have to do for the research.
So, time to go back to my ruffly "cauliflower", and start logging about it. In the meantime, I decided to sew the rest of the costume by hand, as I clearly have the time - no events any time soon -, I enjoy it, it's more "historically accurate" (although I'm hand sewing, I'm not following "original practice"), and may be interesting in a research point of view. The only things that will go in the machine are the scalloped hem embroidery, and maybe the tulle petticoat.

shirt's collar: 1/2 reverse; 1/2 turned

This was a tough one! I made a first attempt at turning the collar back in February, but I was still in Caldas, and I didn't take my fray check bottle with me. Even the best quality silk taffeta would surely be problematic in this collar design. So, at the risk of staining the fabric - fray check tends to stain delicate fabrics, like satin, organza or taffeta -, I sealed the fabric with it along the scalloped edges, and then, very patiently, started turning the scallops with the help of a thick crochet needle. To make the pointy edges clean, I first folded them along the seams, on the reverse side, and helped ease the point out, by carefully using a pin. Ity looks better on camera then in real life.

+ Fray check makes the seams sturdier, and helps them not to fray.
- It was really difficult to turn the collar neatly, the fusible interfacing got loose and I had to baste it in place, so I could turn the scallops. The neater side is on the outside, but the underside unfortunately isn't as nice.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Press it very well and sew it to the collar stand, press again and sew it to the shirt.

[written in 1.12.2020]

19.10.20

Hokuto Sumeragi - Umbrella #1

Hokuto Sumeragi, Tokyo Babylon
by CLAMP

COSPLAY ID
CHARACTER Hokuto Sumeragi
SOURCE Tokyo Babylon Photographs artbook
COSTUME Umbrella costume

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

COSTUME BREAKDOWN

  • turquoise waterproof pointy newsboy hat
  • turquoise turtleneck (or hicky)
  • sky blue shirt
  • turquoise gloves
  • turquoise waterproof umbrella skirt with corset
  • turquoise shorts or sky blue bloomers (not seen)
  • turquoise waterproof overknee boots
  • turquoise waterproof umbrella with blue world map

8 stacked witches hats

I've been trying to figure out how to make this skirt for years, after thinking about it and researching, I got good plan, and I also found out I can buy the turquoise waterproof fabric by meter online, and it's not expensive. Part of the structure, the umbrella ribs, were what was evading me, but then I thought of steel wire. But steel wire requires special tools to cut it, and I don't want to have to buy a cutter just for one costume, but then it occured to me that those cheap halloween witches hats have spring steel wire on the brim, so I got 8 of them, one for each rib.

The skirt's structure plan is, use the witches hats wire for the ribs, make a hoop from plastic boning, inspired by ballerina pancake tutus, that have a hoop to keep them straight, use the fabric shape to make the curve, and the corset will double as a ballerina basque, it will hold everything together, with reinforced seams, and all the works.

The other half of the illustration has Hokuto's twin brother Subaru, with his back turned to us, where we can see a fleur-de-lys yoke on his shirt, and the world map on the umbrella. I'm going to use those ideas for Hokuto's costume.

+ This costume is a really good challenge I'd like to face, and it shouldn't be very expensive, as most materials are on the cheap side.
- I'm not sure all this is going to work until I finish it.

THE CUNNING PLAN
I'm not planning on starting this one anytime soon, first I must finish the Mad Hatter costume and then Yuuko's Green Dress. Until I start, I'll do more research and think of a way to unfold the skirt to transport and store it.

[written in 1.12.2020]

Lengthy Introduction Post

In September 2020 I started my PhD in Fine Arts , specializing in Multimedia Arts , at Lisbon's Fine Arts College , FBAUL . I've bee...