Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #76

the jacket!

The base of the jacket is finished! At the start of the year, I had set a small goal to have the jacket base finished by the end of January. I did it on February 1st. Not bad.

To sew the in set sleeves, I start by turning the jacket inside out. Then I pin the sleeve seam to the jacket's side seam, right side to right side; then the sleeve top to the sleeve opening top. Then I start pinning the bottom curves, which should match fairly well (they did). And finally, start pinning upwards, slightly gathering the top, if needed. Usually you won't see that gathering from the outside, but in these you can see it a bit, which isn't very problematic. Then I sewed the sleeves, with a backstitch, starting from the bottom, working my way up, and then back down. I struggled with keeping the slashes next to each other, and that's why there's more gathering in one of the sleeves. I should have basted them together, before sewing the sleeves. Maybe I'll resew them, and do it this way.

Then I puffed the tulle ruffles, and tacked them to the seam allowance, inside the sleeve, placing it in the top centre. I also made a small blunder, the plan was to sew the sleeve to all of the jacket's 3 layers, the outer fabric, the inner fabric with the boning, and the lining. But somehow, I sewed them only to the outer and inner layers. I plan on turning the seam allowance towards the sleeve, so it puffs a bit more on top,  and after, sew the lining to the inner seam. Because I don't have the inner seam, the lining is still loose, I will fold the jacket's lining in, and slip stitch it to the seam. Later, when I add the sleeve lining, I will stitch it to the jacket lining's folded edge.

Still to do, before the finishing details, add some ribbon to the sleeve top, so it won't slip down, and sew the cuffs. I'm adding the lining much later, but it will make it easier to put the jacket on.

+ it is done, not much more to go, and I looove how it looks.

- there were a few bumps, the slits being a bit too open, because of the way I sewed them on, and the lining's silly mistake. Not really a mistake, just a small blunder.

THE CUNNING PLAN

Make the closures, sew them on, and add the real closures, the big hooks+eyes.