Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #70

trimming the hem

After yesterday's small mishap, I lost a bit of motivation, and only started working on the jacket late. Weirdly enough, Sacha Baron Cohen's Brüno started playing on TV, and I simply grabbed the jacket, the graphite pencil, the pin jar and the scissors and took all to the ironing board, to trace the hem. It's one of those films I watched very often and don't demand too much attention - good for sewing. I pinned both skirt sides together, folding the jacket in the middle of the back, traced the hem, using the marks I made yesterday as a reference, using the graphite on the right side - it will be covered by the bias tape, it won't be seen - and cut all 4 layers (2 cherry red outer layers + 2 burgundy lining layers) while flat. Unfortunately, there was a casualty, my sleeve caught one of the pins on top of the pin jar pin cushion, and it fell on the ground and broke. Fortunately, I managed to keep it whole, while the lid was still on, so I managed to transfer all the pins to my pin can, without spilling them on the ground. I got the pin jar at Flying Tiger, and it was one of my best buys there. The pins are brass and very thin, and it came with a pin cushion inserted on the lid. They never had those jars for sale anymore.

Then I started sewing the bias tape to the right side hem. I didn't sew much, it was becoming late, but by Wednesday it should be finished, or almost.

+ Brüno gave me motivation to do something today.

- I almost didn't do anything today, although ComicCon is in 2 weeks, and I'm trying to sew a bit every day until then.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Keep sewing a bit every day.

I have a priority plan towards ComicCon: 1. completely finish the jacket; 2. cover the shoes; 3. hem the skirt; 4. make the bloomers; 5. finish the gloves; 6. finish designing the teacup (which won't be finished by ComicCon anyway). Hokuto isn't a very well known character, and if I'm missing an item like the bloomers or gloves, no one will notice. Ah, and I will be wearing my pretty DKNY knee high socks, I bought in London in 1994 🖤

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #69

finished top and front bias tape trim

The worse thing about procraftinating, is you tend to forget your initial intentions when you started; the worse thing about being lazy, is not trying the garment on between phases. That said, when I attached the skirt to the jacket's bodice, I should have tried it on with the skirt and petticoat, and check the length. Now I'm stuck with a jacket a bit longer than it should, it should be about 3 fingers shorter than the skirt, and now it's about the same length as the skirt. And, as the real world doesn't work like comic books, manga in this case, the lighter fabric skirt and petticoat will surely bunch up underneath the heavier jacket. Or... maybe not, because the jacket's lining is veeery slippery. Let's hope the latter is right!

I realised that when I was folding the jacket in half, and pinning it to mark where the final hem should be. So, I tried it on, over the skirt, but then I put the skirt over it, because it was easier to see (in the mirror) where the jacket should end, over the skirt. Hem fittings should be made by someone else, but I'm winging it, and trusting my experience and instinct. They usually don't fail me, let's hope they won't this time too.

+ Fortunately the trimming won't mess the arrow spacing proportions, and I managed to make it the skirt length! 

- This shows I should be more disciplined and do more fittings along the way, but the issue is still solvable without sacrificing accuracy too much.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Pin the jacket in half again, mark the hem, and go on with the bias tape trim.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #68

front bias tape 50% done.

 

Started adding the bias tape to the jacket. First I cut about 6 or 7 6cm wide bias strips, out of the burgundy satin. Instead of sewing all the strips together in one long strip, I clipped all the pieces together, and tried to choose the strips closer to the length of each side, from corner to corner, as best as I could, so not to waste too much fabric. This is especially important for the front, topmost and most visible parts of the tape, as not to have any visible seams, except for the corners. I don't think I'll be able to have both bottom hems all in one piece each, but I'll try to keep the seams mostly to the back.

I pressed the first piece of tape, one of the fronts, using my widest bias tape gadget, but, because it's 1cm narrower than my actual tape, and the fabric is so slippery, that I really wasn't able to make even folds. Then I pinned it 4-5mm from the middle front edge of the jacket, to the right side, and, with the help of a gauge, measuring 1,5cm, I started sewing the tape to the jacket, with a backstitch. I stopped sewing when I reached about 6cm from the bottom hem, because I want the front to overlap the bottom. then I turned the tape, folded it over the edge, folded it again to the inside, much like a book dust cover, and started sewing the other edge, using an invisible stitch. When I reached the wide angle, where the bodice meets the skirt, I tried to fold it neatly, to the best of my abilities, although it didn't turn out as crisp as I wished. Then I realised I didn't need to fold the bias tape before sewing it, the gauge and pins are enough. So I didn't do it for the remaining tape.

After adding bias tape to both the front openings, I started adding it to the top, neckline opening. First I folded the tape in half, to find the sharp top corner. I sewed it diagonally to where the remaining seam will be, trying to have a neat corner. Then I started sewing the bias tape as previously, but pulling it a bit, so it won't wrinkle at the inner curve, and also to add a bit of tension to the neckline. I'm currently a bit over half way of the first seam, but it's starting to take shape!

+ Using the gauge makes it easy to keep a straight seam, while handsewing.

- It was a bit of a waste of time folding the bias tape before sewing, and made that side a little sloppier, although one doesn't notice a thing from the outside.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Finish sewing the bodice bias tape, trim the skirt and add the remaining bias tape to the bottom hem and back slit.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #67

finished arrows

I finished sewing the arrows! The break between sides ended up being almost one week, due to a very busy week and a head cold. I didn't feel like doing anything in the evening, besides laying on the couch in the dark.

I had to sew them over a flat surface to keep them straight, but I'm quite happy overall on how they turned out. Only one arrow head is a bit off, I may still unpick it and resew it.

After sewing them, I pressed them very well.

I folded one of the front bias tapes and started sewing it right away, but I still need to trim the skirt and at least pin it in place, but maybe baste it, and sew the buttons.

Meanwhile, I've been wearing the shoes at home to break them, but they're quite comfortable, there's not really a need for it.

+ After the first bad try, the arrows were quite quick to sew.

- just the sewing position wasn't the most comfortable, and one arrowhead is still crooked.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Sew on the front bias tape, the neckline's just after. Then, sew on the buttons, trim the skirt and pin it, and sew the hem's bias tape. The last bit should be the back opening's bias tape.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #66

poorly testing the arrow placement

 

Remember me having doubts about the positioning of the arrows (let's call them arrows for ease of writing), and slanting them a bit upwards? Well, I decided to put it on top of the skirt and petticoat, and they tend to slope downwards, although they are not. So I decided to unpick the one that's already sewn and place them parallel to the hem. this way, although they won't be perpendicular to the front opening, they'll look at least parallel to the ground, and look more like the artwork.

jacket's skirt detail

+ my picky brain will be happier about it.

- I'll have to unpick a few hours work.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Unpick. Replace. Redo.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #65

the jacket's skirt appliqués

Today I made good progress! First I cut around 8m bias tape, phew! But then I remembered, I need to sew on the jacket skirt's appliqués before sewing the bias tape. So, I cut the corners, then I used the card stock template as a guide, and ironed the seam allowance in, for four of the appliqués. My ironing board is a bit low, so I can't iron for very long, or my back hurts... so, I did it for half of them.

pinned appliqués

Then I calculated where the appliqués would start, marked and and traced four perpendicular lines. After I pinned them, I realised two things, I would need to shift them up about 2cm, or else they wouldn't be evenly spaced with the bottom bias tape; and they couldn't be at a 90° angle, because of the curved hem and pointy waist. I adjusted them with the help of pins, and started sewing the top appliqué, with a ladder or invisible stitch. When I was reaching the arrow point, I realised the "straight" seam was all wobbly. I had to unpick the seam and start over, almost from the beginning. To prevent it to be wobbly, first I added a lot of pins, along the edge, and instead of picking the fabric in my hand to sew, I sewed it on top of my cutting board, so the fabric would stay flat.

top appliqué is sewn (but not pressed)
and the others pinned

It worked.

+ after all the fussing, it worked nicely, and my guess is it will go quicker than I first thought.

- argh for flimsy fabrics, I hope my next costume has none!

THE CUNNING PLAN 

To sew at least one arrow appliqué per evening, and start with the bias tape. Mental note, I need to sew the skirt buttons before adding the bias tape.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #64

done button holes! 

 

FINALLY I picked up my Hokuto costume again! YAY! Still struggling for motivation, but all of the shirt's button holes, except the cuff button holes are done! I wanted to make the more visible top button hole last, so I'd have more control and it would turn out neater. The others are definitely not so neat.

I may still sew the cuffs tonight, or not, it's almost 2:30 a.m. now, but I'm rather determined to finally finish the shirt, sewing the buttons will be the last thing to do, but I don't mind that.

Why do I make button holes by hand, if I find making them such a torture? Well, my sewing machine is going on 60 years old, and I was never able to control the button hole making setting very well, and in this flimsy fabric... nope, I'd rather endure the torture of making button holes by hand.

finished shirt.

UPDATE (2 days later)

FINISHED THE SHIRT! Well, I may still trim the inside of the sleeves' seam, it's about 2cm wide, which is too much, but the shirt is finished, button holes done, buttons sewn, pressed, wearable. Unlike the button holes, I rather like sewing on buttons, so, tonight I made the cuffs' button holes and sewn on all the buttons.

the buttons

As I probably mentioned before, the "normal" buttons come from my grandfathers' village general store, they're probably 70 years old, and the sparkly, visible buttons, are cheap buttons from the Chinese beads and trinkets store.

2 down, 8 to go!

+ Unlike the previous button holes, which I made one at a time, tonight I made 4! button holes!

- The top button hole looks nice, but the others, not so much...

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Make the cuffs' button holes and sewed the buttons. Only a little bit to go 🤏!

Update, with the shirt 100% done, I think I'll tackle another thing I'm not a big fan of next, the bias tape cutting and pressing (for the jacket).

I'm also thinking of testing the taffeta for the skirt and bloomers' hems. I'll test the embroidery, with and without the freezer paper to stabilise it, with normal thread, and the rolled hem foot. I wanted to buy the satin lace, but, in true Murphy's Law style, when I finally had the money to order the lace, it was sold out... u_u