Yuuko Ichihara - Foxy Lady #16

the raglan sleeve and square ruffle mock up

In the last few years, whenever I need to draft a new pattern, I make a small 1/6th scale mock up on one of my Blythe dolls. This way, I get the pattern shape without wasting fabric. When I'm happy with it, which in this case was on the first try, I just replicate it to my measurements. 

This time I drafted the stand alone raglan sleeves, and the underskirt ruffles, for which I already have the fabric. I just didn't make the slit, just because in this scale and for the sake of the mock up, I didn't need it. The ruffle is a square, with a slit on the bias until the centre, making a drop shape. The plan is to just sew the curved part to the base skirt, and roll hem all the squares. Only it will be a bit hard to calculate how many squares I will need, first I need to draft the base skirt and see how long the squares radius will be. One thing I know, it will be a pain to sew all those rolled hems. I plan to use the roll hem foot on my machine, but I think it will be quicker and neater if I do it by hand. I'm not very good with the roll hem foot, especially doing the corners. Besides, I'm not sure where I hid it.

+ In less than one hour I got to know the general shape of the sleeve pattern and the square ruffles. Now I just need to go to the new house, draft it on paper, and cut it in the fashion fabric.

- Although this method usually works, sometimes it may be a bit off, because of the fabric density at this scale. It still doesn't solve the ruffle maths.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Spend a few hours at the new house, to draft the pattern and cut it in the fashion fabric. When I go downtown to shop for the grey fabric, also get one or two meters of white lining taffeta, for the underskirt.

Yuuko Ichihara - Foxy Lady #15

the pretty wavy leftover kimono silk

I was looking at the Dylon Dyes website, to order the grey dye, so I finally grabbed the remainder kimono silk, from Yuuko's Valentine Day corset, and measured it. Unfortunately it's about 10×0,36m long, which means I would have about 1,5m left from the dress, and not enough for the bustle. I'm sad. This fabric would be so perfect for this dress, with the watery texture... This calls for an emergency trip downtown to get the fabric for this dress. At least 4×1,5m.

The only thing I didn't love about this fabric for this specific dress, it's very drapey and rather thin, even if it's really dense. No time to try and find similar fabric on eBay (where I bought this one), so I'm going to look for something sturdier, less drapey.

+ I won't need to order the dye from the UK and face the dreaded customs delays and taxes.

- This would be sooo perfect!

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Search online for nice grey fabrics, preferably with some texture, like an affordable damask. Go downtown and look for possibilities in the few dabric shops left. If I can't find anything, go the same day to Campo de Ourique's shops.

If there is nothing in the local shops, challenge mom or Carol to go to Park dos Tecidos and Bispos, near Cascais.

Yuuko Ichihara - Foxy Lady #14

the cuff and collar patterns

I haven't been working much on cosplays, but I already have my cutting table at the new house, and made a Sailor dress in two days! One still has to make proper excercise, using a cutting table, but it makes the job muck quicker and easier!

It's still more convenient to pattern the small pieces on top of my drawing board, so I patterned the cuff and collar pieces, to scan them later today.

Meanwhile I also bought the golden embroidery thread, now I need to find the kimono fabric, and order the grey dye online. Both stores that carry Dylon dyes in Lisbon were out of grey. Apparently it's also the only colour missing...

+ I needed to pattern these first, not really to make the blouse, although it will most likely be the first piece to be sewn for this costume, because I need to make the embroidery pattern and star embroidering, as it's what takes longer to complete.

- I need to start embroidering asap, if I want to ahve this costume completed for ComicCon Portugal, in December.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Scan the patterns adapt the traced embroidery pattern to them, have it printed and start embroidering it.

Space: 1999 - Science Officer #2

I was invited to make a short presentation at Fórum Fantástico, about Cosplay.  I decided to sort of write the History chapter for the thesis, and I called the presentation "It were the ETs? Cosplay Archeology". I was thinking about wearing Lum for the presentation, I had to wear some costume after all, but because I was also interested in attending some of the other panels at Fórum Fantástico, and it's still very warm weather, I decided to wear the Science Officer, without the wig. It's also nicer for Fórum Fantástico, where there are older people who would recognise the costume attending, and also because of convenience. The costume is much smaller to carry with, and easier to put on than Lum.

Because the presentation was on a second floor, and the lift was out of order, I decided to quickly put the costume on, on top of my clothes, at the room next door. Unfortunately the boots pleather is already decaying (damned humid Batcave - without the benefits) and I left boot dandruff all over the library floor 😅 This costume's belt is also a bit snug, with the extra pandemic pounds... The presentation went well, and I was eager to get out of the warm costume.

+ The Science Officer was a good convenient choice for this event.

- It was still too hot for that costume, still 30° C.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Find a thin beige leather, at Domingos & Nogueira, and replace both the belt and the boots pleather.