Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #35

jacket's bodice in 3 layers:
1. cherry red outer layer;
2. matte burgundy inner layer, with boning;
3. satin burgundy lining

Finished sewing both the jacket's outer fabric and the lining. I sewed it with backstitch and after it was done, trimmed the seam allowance to about 2cm, and pressed all the seams open. I thought about felling the seams, at least for the outer and thicker fabric, but after pressing the seams open, I decided not to, as they stayed nicely in place.

+ It's taking shape, looking like more than scraps of fabric.
- I hope all the three layers match nicely, and everything will fit like the mock-up in the end.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Join the 3 layers on the top seam, with a running stitch.

[written in 3.12.2020 - almost there!]

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #34

cutting the jacket's bodice lining

I've been concerned about the possibility of the burgundy cotton, in the jacket's inner layer, staining the almost optical taffeta white. The shirt won't be used without the jacket, but still, I'd like my outfits to be of easy maintenance, and not be ruined by things like this. So, I checked the burgundy satin, and I have enough for the hat's bow, the bias tape and the bodice's lining. I went ahead and cut it. To cut it with the least amount of trouble, I placed each of the jacket's outer pieces on top of the satin, matching the weft as much as I could, pinned them and simply cut each piece. Because I'm sewing by hand, and I usually don't include seam allowances in my patterns, I still had to trace the seams, but this way there's not much warping and it's much quicker.

+ a quick way to cut a lining, that will hopefully save me from some maintenance troubles.
- I still have to trace the pattern, to have a line to follow while I hand sew.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Start sewing this jacket.

[written in 3.12.2020 - almost catching up!]

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #33

final casings and the boning

Finished sewing the boning casing. I put 6 bones in the front, two of them at the closure, much like a busk, 2 bones on the side seams, and 5 more in the back. The bones are 12mm, leftovers from Yuuko's Red Chinese Dress, and the casing is simple cotton tape, except both the front closure bones, which are enclosed in the burgundy cotton fabric.

inner layer fitting

Had one more fitting, naturally the jacket won't close with clamps, and I like it. If it were a corset, a few more bones would probably be better, but I don't think I'll need more for this. I didn't wear it long, but it feels very comfortable!

I also finally made the first button hole in the shirt. The bottom one.

+ I'm happy with the fit, can't wait to see it with the other fabrics.
- It took a really long time to sew all the casings, I started sewing them by hand (the tape is very tight), even before I realised my sewing machine was broken.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Cut a lining for the bodice, and start sewing the lining and the outer layer.

[written in 2.12.2020]

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #32

I kept on sewing a bit of the shirt's hem almost every day. Today I finished it!

+ The shirt is almost finished.
- Hemming is a boring task.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Start with the button holes, one at the time.

[written in 1.12.2020]

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #31

Sewn part of the shirt's hem, I folded  it twice, with thew help of the iron, and top stitched it, with a backstitch. I used a gauge to keep the stitching paralell to the hem. I also got back to sewing part of the boning casing on the jacket's inner layer.

+ It's some progress.
- Both tasks are boring.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Keep doing both tasks until complete.

[written in 1.12.2020]

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #30

button holes & buttons

The hem finally done, I marked the button holes with a fine pencil, and fray checked them on both sides. I didn't add interfacing to the shirt's closure, although I should have, partly because I was lazy, and because the taffeta is a bit transparent, the interfacing making it opaque. There will be two types of buttons, neutral white buttons, from my granddad's general store, kept by my mom, for the hidden button placket, and sparkly flower buttons, for the front's top button and the cuffs. As long as they're visible, they might aswell look sparkly.

+ Upcycle is the word, and I love using items that have some history on my costumes. Although I never met my granddad, I like to feel connected to him through the surviving items from his store.
- I hate making button holes...

THE CUNNING PLAN
Because it's a pain to make button holes, I'm going back to the jacket, and make one or two in between.

[written in 1.12.2020]

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #29

Finished the cuffs. I started with the bias tape at the opening. With the help of the iron, I folded it inwards, at the seam, on the top part, and folded it again. On the bottom part, I first folded it in half and then folded the extra allowance inwards. All were sewn with invisible stitches. Then, the cuff themselves, I folded the allowance inwards, with the help of the iron, and sewed it with an invisible stitch. Pressed everything very well.

+ Fairly the same method I used to finish the collar, it leaves no visible stitching.
- The bias tape on the opening part ended up a bit weird, but I gave it a press and it's less visible now.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Start hemming the shirt and mark the button holes.

[written in 1.12.2020]

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #28

almost finished shirt

I sewn the collar to the shirt, by first sewing the outer collar stand, with a backstitch, to the shirt, and then sewing the inner collar stand, with an invisible stitch, to the previously made seam.

+ This way there's no invisible top stitching and, if the collar and shirt opening don't really match, it's very easy to ease in the difference.
- I'm still bummed I couldn't get the collar scallops perfectly, but even if I had extra fabric to do it again, I doubt I could do a much better job.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Finish the cuffs.

[written in 1.12.2020]

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #27

Sewn the button placket. With no visible closure in the artwork, I opted for a hidden button placket. How does this work? On the button part, the left side, I simply folded the front twice on itself and hemmed it with invisible stitching. On the button hole part, the right side, I folded it once, inwards, once outwards, once more inwards, and again inwards. Then I sewn it all twice with an invisible stitch.

+ the closure will still be visible, and it won't hide the top button, but it was the best way without using a lot of fabric.
- there should be no visible closure on the front. The "invisible" stitching on the button hole placket is still visible if you unfold it.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Sew the collar to the shirt.

[written in 1.12.2020]

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #26

pinned the collar stand to the collar

 

and sewn both together

With the collar neatly pressed, I chose which side would go on the outside and sewn it to the collar stand,. Pressed again.

+ sewing these things by hand makes the job so much neater!
- it takes longer than on thre machine, and this pristine white taffeta has me washing my hands before sewing, as if it has the virus.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Sew the button placket and sew the collar to the shirt.

[written in 1.12.2020]