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| the cursed bobbin event |
After hand basting the dress pocket halves to the dress (two in the front, two in the back), the princess seams and the shoulder seams, and the hood halves, I took the sewing machine out and proceeded to fill the bobbin. I usually have 3 or 4 working bobbins, one with white thread, another with black thread, and two with cool coloured and warm coloured thread each. As Murphy Law dictates, right when it was about to be completely full, the bobbin broke in half... In these many years I've been sewing, something like this never happened to me, but I don't use plastic bobbins that often. Fortunately my sewing machine repair shop is nearby, and they sell metal bobbins. I guess I need to drop by and buy one or two more.
After the cursed bobbin event, I patiently hand rewound the thread around the spool. Thread is expensive, especially the Gütermann polyester thread, I wouldn't allow it to go to waste. It took me about one hour...
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sewed princess and shoulder seams. it looks wonky because the side seams aren't sewn yet. |
So, I filled another bobbin, a metal one this time, and proceeded to sew the basted seams. I usually do this in order, so I started with one pocket half, did the princess seams next, then the two other pocket halves, the remaining princess seams, and the final pocket half. Lastly, I sewed the shoulder seams. After sewing, I trimmed the seam allowances to about 1,5-2 cm. I didn't overcast any of the raw edges, as this fabric doesn't fray, just mabe shed a tiny bit of fur around the edges while manipulating it.
Then I basted the side seams and machine sewed them. I usually don't hand baste seams, but velvet shifts a lot under the machine foot, so I usually always hand baste velvet.
How I do my invisible pockets. I usually sew each half to each side of the dress, two at the front, and two at the back, at the same height, naturally. Then, before sewing the side seam, I sew the pocket halves together. Then, I sew the side seam from the top to the bottom, stopping a few centimeters after the pocket seam. Then I start again about 3 to 5 centimeters before the pocket bottom seam, and down towards the hem. Sometimes I need to adjust, or add some top stitching on the back side of the pocket opening, but I didn't do it this time around.
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| final trimmed collar, arm holes and hem |
Then I tried the dress on with the collar, to trim the collar opening. I made it slightly oval in the front, as it's more flattering. I also trimmed the arm holes and the hem, leaving the hem about 4 fingers longer in the back, to accomodate my big butt.
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| finished dress |
I gave a good thought on how I would finish the dress, even thought of simply top stitching it all, but ended up making a facing for the collar opening, and hand hemming the rest. I added a stay stitch to the inside of the facing, because this is soft velvet, and I didn't want the facing to roll up, then slip stitched the facing to the dress, slip stitched the arm hole hems, and catch stitched the hem, about 3 cm wide.
One can't press velvet, it will leave marks, so, even though there were only a few hours left until I wore the costume, I hung it so it would eventually look less wonky and gain its final shape overninght.
+ It's a very quick and simple dress to sew, but I had to complicate things by adding a facing and hand sewing all the openings. Still something I could do in one or two days, If I really were up to it.
- the cursed bobbin was a bummer, but it was an easy fix, and didn't delay the sewing job by much. Unfortunately, hand hemming takes a long time, and I ended up not having enough time to hem the gloves (the only thing left to do in this costume).
THE CUNNING PLAN
Make the hood, hem the gloves. Add the hood details.