Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #74

sleeve and tulle ruffle

The jacket bodice and skirt finished, it's time to go back to the sleeves!

I measured the ungathered top of the undersleeve, and cut around 1,5m of the leftover tulle strip and I cut those 1,5m in half, lengthwise. I then folded the tulle ⅓, lengthwise and pinned it. The strip was still folded in half, lengthwise, so I cut it open, in order to have 4 ruffles, 2 shorter, and 2 longer. With thick thread (leftover from my Science Officer costume), I basted 2 gathering rows, and gathered it to the limit. These will keep the sleeves puffy, but not stuffed.

everything basted together,
except the sleeve sides and the tulle

I had already begun the right/left sleeve. I basted the top of the gathered satin undersleeve, to the top of the sleeve. Instead of evenly distributing the gathering, I bunched it near the slashes. Then I basted the bottom to the slashes lining, and took the bottom gathering stitches off. I still have to tack both to the outer fabric, so everything stays in place. 

I then tried it on, with the tulle ruffle pinned on the inside,  and fitted the sleeve. It works!

+ everything worked really well and quickly, I think I'll have the sleeves done by the end of the week!

- ruffles! how I hate them!

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Tack the undersleeve and sleeve lining to the sleeve, tack the tulle to the sleeve, sew the sleeve shut, hem it, sew it to the jacket. Repeat with the other sleeve. See if I have enough satin for sleeve linings.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #73

bias tape finished hem
(still needs ironing)

Well, well, well, about 8m bias tape finally sewn! I should celebrate! In order to have the least possible bias tape visible seams, I tried to use one tape between each corner, hiding the edges on each corner. The only parts I couldn't avoid a seam, were the longer bottom hem parts. All the other "sides" are in one piece. This was also possible because the satin is very thin, or else the corners would have become much bulkier. To sew the tape, I used my usual method: using a gauge, I sewed the tape on the outside, with a backstitch, folded it at the seam, then in the middle, and, finally, folded it inwards, encasing the main  and sewed it with an invisible stitch to the seam on the reverse side.

+ I feel rather accomplished, not because it's difficult, it isn't, but because this was probably the lengthiest sewing in this whole project. Now I think I'll manage to finish it on the current due date, February the 27th, for the Cosplay Photoshoot (pandemics allowing).

- the corners were easy, especially compared with the concave in the back. Fortunately it was only one.

THE CUNNING PLAN

Finish the sleeves already! So you'll have a finished jacket, minus the closures! Also, the closures and the gloves. Most of the other sewing, will be machine sewn.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #72

old brass keys

HAPPY NEW YEAR! (to my zero readers)

I'm in the process of selling a family property, and with it, I plan on buying a bigger flat, with an extra room, to become my long longed for studio. The property has two houses and a well, and these were the brass keys for some of the doors. Those locks don't work any longer, so I decided to keep the keys as a remembrance, but also to use as a prop for my doctorate's Artistic Project, which I wrote in early December. Why? The project is "The Mad Hatter's Tea Party", and I'll be wearing this Hokuto costume, while hosting the tea party. I will invite cosplayers and ask them to wear Alice in Wonderland and Tokyo Babylon and CLAMP related costumes. The range shall be the widest possible, one can attend wearing a The Matrix costume, or a bunny costume of some kind (I have a feeling there will be a lot of bunnies attending). The keys will have attached labels, with references to both stories, and will be a scene prop.

In December I also went back to 3D modelling my teacup and saucer. Found several Onshape tutorials in YouTube, and now I'm finding it easier to handle. I still feel very clumsy with it, but it's working much better now. I also searched for 3D teacup and saucer files online, and I plan to have a few of them printed, also as a scene prop for the Artistic Project. I plan on painting them with stencils and such, for a quick but diverse finish.

Meanwhile, I took a small sewing break over the holidays, but now I'm back to business, which means, sewing bias tape. I already finished the left side, and I'm now sewing the right side's bottom. All there's left is the back bias tape.

+ I got my first scenic prop, and with history behind it. I think I'll label one of the keys Vale Luzelos, the name of the property.

- the bias tape sewing is taking a long time, and I'm not much in the mood for any sewing... I guess I'm too excited looking for my ideal flat.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Sew the remaining bias tape and maybe go back to the gloves, or sleeves. Whichever I'm in the mood for, when the day comes.