Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #53

interfacing the top

I don't like this felty, fuzzy interfacing (except for neckties - and I've made two neckties in my life), but somehow I always end up buying it... I think it's maybe because there isn't a big variety for sale in local shops of non woven interfacing, without glue.

When I pinned the hat parts to the head, I realised the fabric is thin enough for one to notice the stiff understructure. So, to soften that, I slip stitched two layers of that felty interfacing to the inside of the top of the hat. It works.

+ What a good way to use up something filling up space in my storage. And it worked fine, the top is still soft, and the hat still fluffy, but it sits neater on top of the felt structure.

- An extra but needed step.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Sew the brim to the crown, and sew the reinforcing strip on top.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #52

"ninja" face mask.

As I had to take out the cherry red grosgrain to cut the missing hat brim pieces, I also cut a mask. About one year ago, the stress caused by the first lockdown had a strange effect on me. I was happy to have to be at home, I like to be at home, but lost my sewing mojo. Even so, I decided to make a few face masks, as they were starting to be required in shops, and other public spaces. I didn't want the extra expense of disposable masks, and the idea of having a disposable daily wear item was itching me the wrong way. I'm not an environmental evangelist, but I try to make my small share, by recycling, not using plastic shopping bags, buy locally, small things like that. So I searched online for a mask pattern, I found this one. My printer was out of ink, so I just adapted the shape to my own face measurements, and have been making masks for myself using this pattern. I made 10 since, mostly because I knew that by the end of summer, I most likely would have a job outside of my home, and would be required to wear a mask all the time. So I aimed to make at least 8, to be able to wear 2 a day for about one week, if needed, and not have to worry about washing and drying them.

CLAMP egg embroidery.

So, as we most likely will be wearing masks for at least one more year or so, I decided to make a mask matching this costume. I test breathed through the grosgrain and it felt comfortable enough. The lining, for once, won't be white cotton, but the burgundy cotton I've been using for mock ups and unseen pieces in this costume. But, it's for cosplay, I didn't want just a practical looking mask, and I thought about it a lot, what would work with this costume. So, I suddenlly remembered that the CLAMP egg symbol is simple enough, and looks believable in Hokuto's and CLAMP's universe. I looked for a picture of the logo online, traced it from my tablet to a piece of paper, then I saturated the 4everse side of the paper with graphite, pinned the paper to the mask, and traced it again, pressing hard with the pencil. This leaves a faint trace of the design, which I traced once more with the pencil to make it more visible. Another trick is to p8n the paper to the fabric, and embroider on top. Just rip the paper off, when it's done.

The finished embroidery.

I first thought of embroidering it in gold thread, but a face mask gets a lot of wear and tear, it gets washed a lot, and gold thread embroidery is too fragile, so, I went to my stash, and chose a cotton golden yellow. I'm using my small embroidery hoop for the first time, and will be just embroidering with a simple stem stitch. The mask will have ties instead of elastics, for a cute effect, using burgundy grosgrain ribbon or white organza ribbon, which of both is more comfortable.

+ I will be prepared if I need to wear a mask at a cosplay event.

- Face masks aren't a happy object, but I try to make the best of it by making cute and fun masks.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Just finish it and test which ribbons work best.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #51

Using the bias tape gadget for the first time.

Since the last post, I made a few smallish things: cut and folded a piece of bias tape for the hat, cut the hat bow pieces and started sewing the bias tape to the outer edge of the hat's brim.

About one year ago, knowing how much self made bias tape I was going to need for this costume, I ordered a cheap fake version of the Clover bias tape gadgets, in 5 sizes. It was time to use them! Unfortunately I need 6cm wide bias tape for this, and the largest is 5cm. First, I cut the 6cm strips of satin on the bias, and sewn them together with a tight backstitch. Then I pressed the seam open, and pressed the whole tape, after that, I followed the gadget's instructions. After folding the tape inside, I folded it in half and pressed. This gadget helps a lot, but my fabric is too thin and shifty, besides trying to make wider bias tape on a narrower gadget... but, instead of pressing the whole thing, out of the gadget's mouth, I just pressed the folds on each side, and then pressed everything nicely. The tape isn't 100% even, but I believe with a stiffer fabric and matching width, it would turn out fine.

The two bow pieces, in two fabrics. 

I'm using my usual method for the bow. Looking at the artwork and my hat, still pinned to the foam head, I eyed the bow's size. Because the satin is very soft and drapey, I cut an interlining out of the burgundy cotton I used for the mock ups. Two rectangles, a bigger one for the bow, a smaller for the knot. The bigger one will be folded in half, lengthwise, and sewn. Then both ends will be folded to the middle, and the middle will be bunched into a bow shape. The small rectangle will also be folded in half, lengthwise, and sewn. Then it will be wrapped around the bow's centre, and tacked to it. I'll show it in more detail when I make it.

bias tape sewing, phase 1.

Because of the uneven bias tape folding, I marked a line with pencil, a bit under 2cm from the edge, on the less visible side of the brim (the top) as a guide to sew the tape on evenly. I first sewed it, on the bottom and more visible side, with a backstitch. 

bias tape sewing, phase 2.

When I reached the joining part, I sewed both tape ends together, to the best of my abilities, with a backstitch. Then, I folded the tape over the brim's edge, and sewed it, with an invisible stitch, to the phase 1 stitches. Trimmed the now fraying edge a bit, and pressed everything thoroughly. 

+ It was the first time I used this gadget to make bias tape. I like it, makes the task much easier and quicker. Must try it with an easier fabric. Not much to add about the bow.
- I have to be extra careful with the bias tape making, so it won't be very uneven. On the hat's brim, one doesn't notice it very much, but on the longer jacket edges, it will be more noticeable.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Completely finish the hat, before switching to something else. Next, attaching the brim to the crown.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #50

The hat crown and brim, pinned to the head.

As planned, I cut the two missing brim parts, sewed each pair to each other with a backstitch, and pressed the seams open. For the denim interfacing, as it's very thick and I didn't want to add bulk to the side seams, so I pinned each piece to the brim, calculated where the seam should be, and sewed them together, overlapping the seams, with a running stitch. 

The three brim layers.

Then I pinned the three layers together, the denim sandwiched by the cherry grosgrain, and joined them with a running stitch at the outer edge. Much like I did with the jacket, this running stitch is here to stay, but will be covered by the satin bias tape.

+ It was an easy and simple step, but this time I marked the seams, on the newly cut brim pieces, with pencil instead of tailor's chalk, because it's finer, a better guide for hand sewing, and it doesn't fade so much with handling. 

- Joining the three layers, so they don't pucker, is a bit fiddly, and maybe the denim is a bit heavy for this, but I'll go ahead anyway.
I may have to add some felt or a thick fabric (maybe the denim) to the inside of the hat's top circle, the fabric is too soft and the inner structure is too noticeable when I pin everything in place. I want the hat crown to look like it's floating, or filled with air.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Cut the big hat bow on the burgundy satin, think of something to give it structure, and cut the first batch of bias tape.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #49

L to R: the hat crown, the inner cap, with a zipper, part of the brim.

I was definitely in a mood for a hat. 

After finishing the inner cap, I sewed the hat crown's side seams with a backstitch. The top of the hat is in 3 pieces, one front, one back, and one top. The front and back are cone sections, the widest at the top, and the top is a circle, smaller than the top opening. Then I press opened the side seams, marked the quarters and eights on the top opening, and gathered it to fit the top circle. Although I marked the eights, I gathered the top, with two rows of running stitch, at every quarter. Then I pinned it to the top circle, every eighth, and started joining both parts, with a back stitch.

 

Sewing the hat's crown.

After I finished sewing, I trimmed the allowance to 1cm, and added a blanket stitch on top of the seam. This is because, although this seam will be hidden, this fabric tends to fray a bit on the horizontal, and with the gathering too. I pressed the crown seam to the inside.

Then I picked up the brim pieces, when I realised, the very bright person that I am, that I only cut two pieces in the cherry red fabric, and the interfacing in denim. It was late, so I just finished sewing the brim side seams, on the two pieces I have, and will cut the two missing pieces tomorrow. The brim has 4 pieces, 2 for the top side, 2 for the bottom side, and 2 interfacing pieces to add a bit of body. I cut the interfacing in leftover denim, from my friend's stash, she gave me the summer of 19.

+ The hat sewing is turning out quickly, as I first thought.

- I'm not 100% happy with the top gathering, it should be more even, but I hate gathering fabric, so I'll leave it as it is.

THE CUNNING PLAN

Cut the two brim missing pieces, sew them, attach the brim to the hat crown.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #48

The inner cap, with the zipper in the middle,
to have access to the inside of the hat-purse.

OK, I got a little bored with the sleeves, I think I dread the upcoming gatherings and ruffles, and got a little fixated on the hat, so I started the hat!

I started by sewing the inner cap, adding a zipper in the middle. This will sit directly on my head, and the zipper will allow access to the inner part of the hat, which will be a purse for my belongings. This costume will have lots of storage, the hat-purse and two big pockets!

So, I sewed each seam once, with bigger backstitches, and then top stitched each seam, and added a blanket stitch to the raw edges, so they won't fray. Then I folded the middle seam inside, and sewn it to the zipper with a top stitch. The zipper colour doesn't match my fabric, so I left a few millimetres over the zipper teeth, to hide them. This will only be seen if I take the hat off, anyway.

+ This part was quick to sew, and I tried to make it neat, even if it won't be much seen.

- The zipper is the wrong colour, and I'm hoping the engineering part of this hat will work as planned.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Go on with the rest of the hat, can't wait to see it assembled!

Black Lady - Black Dress #1

Black Lady, Sailormoon R, Naoko Takeuchi

COSPLAY ID

CHARACTER Black Lady
SOURCE Sailormoon manga & Sailormoon R anime, by Naoko Takeuchi

COSTUME Black Lady's only dress

COSPLAY BREAKDOWN

• black silky dress with transparent sleeves, side slashes, lined in cherry red
• pink wig with floor length pigtails
• Dark Moon Earrings
  
• cherry red stole
• blue underskirt
• reddish high heels
  
• Luna-P Ball
  

Another throwback post... the next one will be more Hokuto progress, I promise! It's this time of the year, Carnival. 

Today, it's my 25th cosplay anniversary! Instead of talking about my 20th anniversary costume, I talked about it on Valentine's Day, because it's a Valentine's Day outfit, I decided to make a big throwback and talk about my very first cosplay and how I started.

Back in 1994, I made a long awaited trip to London. I hadn't been in the UK since the early 80's, so I went to visit my best friend, studying there. One of the things on the list was to visit the Forbidden Planet store, then at New Oxford Street. If London was a Mecca for me, the Forbidden Planet was it's Alladdin Cave. There, I bought two things that changed my life: the first volume of the VIZ Comics English translation of Rumiko Takahashi's Ranma ½, and an issue of Anime UK magazine, edited by Helen McCarthy. After I got home, I subscribed the magazine and ordered the back issues. I subscribed it until it changed its name to Anime FX, and then until it was gone forever. Every month, I eagerly awaited the magazine to arrive on the post, and read it from cover to cover. It opened up a whole new world for me. With it I found the Japanese band Pizzicato Five, a ton of anime authors, and, amongst a lot of other things, Cosplay! It was a small article, in one of the first issues, about the cosplayers at Comiket, in Tokyo. In one of the photos there was this girl, in a black posh dress, with pigtails in her own hair. Anime UK also introduced me to one if my favourite anime and manga series, Sailormoon. Fast forward a few years, I managed to get the first 3 volumes of the Sailormoon manga (in Japanese), from a Paris store, and Sailormoon started playing on our TV, after a few years of a strange anime draught on Portuguese TV. I also started learning Japanese, where I reconnected with Pedro, an acquaintance whom became one of my best friends until today. Pedro used to organise fabulous parties, and one of the the first ones he invited me to, was a masquerade party, around the Carnival celebrations.

 

Party invitation, 19.02.1996,
from my Graphic Diary, with photocopied, cut out
and coloured artwork from the manga Sailormoon.

That was the trigger! I already had around 10 years experience sewing, I loved to dress up, but there were no geek events or a big tradition of masquerading in Lisbon. In fact, it was a bit frowned upon. I decided on Black Lady, because she was a villain with a lot of pathos, a nice sad story, and a gorgeous but simple dress, I knew I could work it out.

I quickly went to buy the fabrics, a thick cotton satin, from Casa Tavares, black tulle, probably from Feira dos Tecidos, where it is cheap. But the pink long hair was throwing me off. The only wigs in unnatural colours around were in bright primary colours, and much too short. My own hair was too short, a long bob at the time, and thinking of dyeing it pink was out of question. I asked at the Doll Hospital shop if they sold wefts, got a big fat unpolite NO. So, after much thinking about it, I decided to make it from scratch, with wool.

I got some pink tulle for the cap, 5 or 6 skeins of thin pink baby wool, probably from Lãs Aires, a great yarn store downtown, that doesn't exist anymore, and a few scraps of upholstery foam, from Pollux. I first made the cap, much like a normal cap, in 6 wedge sections, and fitted it to my head the best I could. Then I marked the parting, the bangs and the ponytails placement. Cut a bunch of strands, double the length plus a bit for each section, and started "ventilating" them. I don't remember if I started with the ponytail sections or the bangs, probably the ponytails, but I remember first following the outer lines and the parting lines, and then lightly filling the middle, until I had enough volume and density. After the wig part was done, and I was happy with the fit, I measured the ponytails' length, to be about 10 cm from the floor, placed two chairs at the measured length in my living room, and started to wind the ponytails around it. My cat, Bibi, was being very annoying, playing with the wool, I had to quarantine her in the kitchen. I think I used 2 skeins for each ponytail. When I had enough volume, I tied one end tightly, and cut the opposite end. To make the bunny ears, I cut the foam into flattened cone shapes, glued them into cones, with contact glue, and then gathered the base to get a drop shape. Then I wound the wool around them, trying to get a latticed, yarn ball effect. After the ears were covered, I sewed the ponytails to the wig, and the bunny ears on top.

I actually started with the dress, it just took me around 2 days to make it, it took me one week to make the wig. Back then, because I didn't know the proper colours, only had the B&W manga as a source, and was on a tight schedule, I made everything in black. The idea was to first make the transparent part of the dress in tulle, because it was cheap and easily available, and later replace it with black chiffon. The gems on the dress were another saga. Back then, not many shops sold plastic gems, there was basically one shop, Casa Batalha, which sold costume jewellery pieces and beads, but in the late 1990's the store entered a downwards curve, started by the big Chiado fire in 1988, the clerks became progressively unpolite, and they were selling less and less individual pieces. I remember I found out the haberdashery store usually go to, Adriano Coelho, had plastic gems, and got them there. Not exactly like the artwork, they were round and oval, but they had to do.

Onto the dress. I made a sleek 1930's inspired pattern, to be cut on the bias, tight from the hips up, widening in a semi-circle skirt from the hips down, with two slashes on the sides. I made the dress separately from the transparent part, already thinking about replacing it later. I also made a facing for the scalloped neck and arm openings. Added bust darts and 4 waist darts, 2 to the front, 2 to the back, for extra fitting. It zips in the back, with an invisible zipper. I cut the transparent part in 3 pieces, made the 2 sleeves separately, and then basted them to the armholes. Made the chest part without seams, to open in the back, on top of the zipper, and also basted it to the neck and back openings. The collar and cuffs were simple rectangles, folded in half,  with the gems sewn on top of them. All close with 2 snaps each.

So, as I was in a crunch, not all went very smoothly. I remember, a few hours before the party, to be finishing winding the wool on the bunny ears, at my friend's living room, while my friend's mom sewed the snaps to my cuffs, while I was already wearing the dress!

I put the wig on, when I was finished with it, put nice black high heels on and partied all night! It was a fun party and my costume was a great success, even though everybody kept calling me Sailormoon. The Sailormoon R series wasn't airing on our TV yet, so, most people didn't know the character. And I was overdressed, most people wore recycled vintage clothes. But I still had loads of fun, and my life as a cosplayer started on that day. 

 

Black Lady dress + wool wig

The following year, I wore the dress to a few events, took it to the Amadora BD, a comic book festival at a nearby city, wore it at small events for the anime company I briefly worked for, and another masquerade party, this time at my friend's Maria João's birthday. But, having watched the episodes, having bought more Sailormoon manga and anime-comics, where I could see the proper colours, I made a few changes.

I replaced the tulle from the dress with black chiffon, as planned, bought at Santo Condestável, never found squarish gems anywhere, lined the dress with cherry red taffeta, added a blue chiffon underskirt, and replaced thr black tulle shawl with a cherry red stiff tulle. I never got to make the earrings, I eventually found blackish droplet crystals, and had the ear clips (I don't have pierced ears), but never found those fleur-de-lis trinkets, that connect the crystals to the ear clips. I also never got to make the Luna-P Ball, I usually carried a black umbrella in replacement, but I wanted to make it out of a rubber ball.

And... the wig is heavy and a bit uncomfortable.

+ the dress was quite easy to make and, when it fitted me, it was very flattering. 

- the wig is too heavy and uncomfortable, needs some kind of inner structure, and well, it looks "woolly". When I added the changes, I made a few mistakes, I had some trouble with the lining, it doesn't drape well, and the chiffon on the back opening gapes a lot, but the only way to have it close like in the artwork, would make it very complicated to put on by myself. And I'm still sad I never made de earrings.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Maybe one day I'll get back to this costume, it doesn't fit me anymore, finally make the earrings and Luna-P. But for now,  it's just an anthological piece of my cosplay history inside my closet. 

Start thinking about a 30th Cosplay Anniversary costume? Maybe my dream costume, a Star Wars, screen accurate, Imperial Guard.

Maetel - Black Coat #1

Maetel, Galaxy Express 999, Leiji Matsumoto

COSPLAY ID

CHARACTER Maetel
SOURCE Galaxy Express 999 manga & anime, by Leiji Matsumoto
COSTUME Maetel's classical black coat

COSTUME BREAKDOWN

• black furry dress/coat, with short cape
• black furry hat
• blue travelling suitcase

Today, should have been the Cosplay Photoshoot, but we're on lockdown, and I'm far from finished with the Mad Hatter costume. So, I decided to publish a throwback from 10 years ago, when I attended the Photoshoot for the first time. The Cosplay Photoshoot has been held regularly for 18 years, at Parque das Nações, in Lisbon. It's an open air big meet, where a crowd photo is taken and people just hang out afterwards. At first it was held on Fat Tuesdays, but then a silly government law deemed it not a holiday any more (Carnival is very popular and celebrated in Portugal), so it's been held on Fat Saturday ever since. Last year it was the last Cosplay event I attended, less than two weeks later, we were entering the first lockdown.

Back in 2004, when I was occasionally cosplaying, but not part of the community, I found a very cheap short black fur, at Feira dos Tecidos, and decided to make this costume, as the huge Leiji Matsumoto fan that I am. I knew it was possible to get a longer fur, at a convenient price, at Santo Condestável, in Campo de Ourique, so I went to the shop to get it. I already had almost the exact suitcase, from a vintage set which belonged to my dad, when he was a bachelor. All there was left was to find a long wig. Fortunately, there was a Spanish party shop downtown, I forgot the name, which had a long blonde wig, so I bought it ASAP. I already had some black tall boots and long fake lashes (very important for Matsumoto-sensei's ladies), and I got some 2cm thick batting to make those puffy trims, cord for the ponpons and an invisible zipper.

Maetel, Galaxy Express 999,at Gare do Oriente 2011
photo by Paulo Morgado

I remember making the costume in a few days, maybe one week. It was an easy draft, a simple dress pattern, with an A-line skirt and darts to shape it at the waist and bust. The cape is in 3 pieces, with seams at the sides, and it's lined with black satin. I rolled the batting and put it inside the long fur, for the puffy look. It closes in the front with an invisible zipper, and two hooks and eyes at the collar.

The wig, still a party city quality wig, didn't survive the second time I wore it, it went to the bin. But in 2014 I made her mother's cosplay (they look like twins), La Andromeda Promethium, so, I can wear that wig.

Unfortunately this costume is very hot for Portuguese weather, especially for a person very sensible to hot weather like me. I only wore it twice, when I made it in 2004, for the Torres Vedras Carnival (where I was fine with the temperature, it's colder than Lisbon), and back in 2011, where this photo was taken, by my friend Paulo Morgado.

I'd love to take it to Entroncamento, to the Train Museum, and make a photoshoot there. But it's sill about one hour away, and I don't drive.

+ This was probably the last costume I made when fabrics were still affordable, even fur. I'm still in awe how my dad's suitcase, which I also used often in my travels, matches the artwork so perfectly!

- Although this costume is quite comfortable, the short fur has some stretch, it's too warm, so I didn't wear it again in 10 years.

THE CUNNING PLAN

Try to make the photoshoot at the Train Museum happen.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #47

print screen of my first steps in 3D drafting the teacup.

I got a new tablet as a xmas gift, so I finally have the hardware to install a 3D drawing app. I'm using Onshape, by suggestion of an IT teacher friend, and it's so much easier than SketchUp! I already made one of the teacup sides, and the base drawing. Maybe I should have started with the saucer, but I usually prefer to start with the most difficult pieces. This way, I can hurry through the easier pieces, if needed, and be more careful with the difficult ones, where there's less margin for errors.

My 3D drawing journey has been a bit frustrating so far. I have about 20 years experience in vectorial drawing, but my first tries with SketchUp, only resulted in spaghetti! The fact that there were no in app tutorials, also didn't help. It's not the most intuitive app.

Onshape has in app tutorials, I took the first, just showing the basic navigation and commands, and the second one, where one builds a simple part, using basic geometric shapes and extrusion. I struggled the most in joining the lines, to be able to manipulate everything at once. But when I found out one had to choose the same "layer", "sketch" in the app, to do so, everything went smoother. I still have a third tutorial to watch, I hope it teaches how to detach the pieces from the planes and move them around. I feel that the teacup's handle will be the most difficult part to design. Everything else is simple geometry.

You can see my design here: teacup+saucer.

Meanwhile, I haven't been sewing... I had my midterm essays to write, there was some confusion about the content, and we entered a new lockdown. Honestly, I procrastinated... my mood went down, and I couldn't make myself do it. Then, the delivery date was postponed. I sent them today, 5 minutes later, I got an email from college, it was postponed again, until the end of February. 

+ I'm finally dabbing in 3D drawing, and it's quite fun, even though there is a slow learning curve. 

- I've always been very quick in learning how to use software, except database building, so it's been quite frustrating that these free 3D design apps aren't the most intuitive.

THE CUNNING PLAN

Watch the 3rd tutorial and keep designing the teacup. Get back to sewing!