I'VE GOT MY MOJO BACK!

the state of Candy's uniform on the eve
of the Cosplay Photoshoot (Feb. 20th)

I started Candy's costume about one year ago, by customising the boots, making the bows and the Ardlay pendant, mostly to decompress, and because I like to slowly make smaller pieces, bit by bit, to keep my mind busy. I was planning to start the costume itself, and the wig styling, in November, but life happened, and I started the wig in December, carefully making a step at the time, not rushing it, as I was also styling such a wig for the first time. I ended up approaching the wig as I usually approach props, and, instead of hating wig styling, as I did before, I thoroughly enjoyed every step, and slowly watching the wig take shape. Also, nothing like the correct tools for the job.

I only started the dress in January, thinking one month and a half would be enough to make it, it's a simple dress after all, something I used to make in about one week. I planned to make both dresses simultaneously, but at this point I knew it was hard to make both in one month, and I postponed the black dress, as the white is more iconic. But I underestimated the amount of hand sewing the ribbons trims would take, and the time it would take. I had to handsew them, in small stitches, because I had to fit a lot of straight ribbon into curved lines.

But, after marathoning for about one week, while watching the Olympic Figure Skating Championship, miscalculating the amount of medium width ribbon needed and missing the Cosplay Photoshoot deadline (February 21st), not to mention my actual 30th Cosplay Anniversary date (February 19th), I realised I was really enjoying all the process, even the fastidious ribbon sewing, from the bows stage to the ribbon stage, not loosing myself in doom scrolling online or wasting time with puzzle games, wanting to do nothing else but work on the costume, make it nicely made, without shortcuts. 

I decided not to attend the Photoshoot, because without cosplay it really isn't fun for me, and stayed at home, correcting a few mistakes I made in sleepy marathon mode, happily enjoying myself.

That's how cosplay was for me 30 years ago, enjoying the process, making it at my own pace and redoing stuff if needed.

I need to archive and treasure this feeling, not to get lost in procrastination mode again, and making costumes for the costumes sake.

Now. that I know I can make it for Aniaki (March 7th), and I'm sure it will be made on time. I'm starting the black dress right away, but reintroducing my old discipline, work on costumes weekends only, sometimes on breaks or in the evening, while watching TV. Daytime is work only.

Also, Festa do Japão em Lisboa was cancelled, so I'll slowly make Midori's costume for Fórum Fantástico, in late September, and Candy's suitcase.

+ I'm so happy, it's like finding myself again.

- it was a long, long time without my cosplay mojo, I don't want this again.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Keep it like this for as long as I can, finish my shag rug, reorganize my storage (I ordered a bunch of stuff from IKEA), and explore my new big tools: the lathe and the knitting machine.

Midori #1

CHARACTER Midori 

SOURCE Shoujo Tsubaki

COSTUME yellow with red polka dot jumper skirt + white shirt

COSTUME BREAKDOWN

• yellow with red polka dots bow
• bobbed midnight blue wig
• white shirt (have)
• midnight blue satin bow
• yellow with red polka dots jumper skirt
• dark brown belt
• white knee high socks
• red mary-janes
• red and white spiral wagasa
• flower basket with origami camellias

I discovered Shoujo Tsubaki and Midori from a cosplay/make-up video by Rin Rin Doll, and, loving the Showa aesthethics, I immediately researched it. Rin Rin's video was sort of a promotion for the recently released film adaptation of the manga, Eiga Shoujo Tsubaki, by Torico, which I duly watched, and then I watched the anime film, Chika Gentō Gekiga: Shōjo Tsubaki, by Hiroshi Harada, but I'm yet to read the manga, by Suehiro Maruo. Maybe I'll read it in the meantime.

Shoujo Tsubaki tells the story of a poor orphan girl, Midori, who gets snatched by a freak show, and is constantly abused there. Yes, it's a horror manga from the 1980's, and, besides the Showa aesthetics, it takes a lot from Shinto folklore.

This is a shift from my Ame Warashi plans, for the Festa do Japão em Lisboa. Mostly because, although I'm enjoying making Candy's twin tails wig a lot, as I'm a bit slower making costumes nowadays, maybe because I didn't get all my mojo back, I still really haven't sorted my cutting table out, and a few personal issues have delayed it. I should be sewing the dresses by now, and I haven't finished patterning them yet, and I don't feel like jumping into a new complex costume right after this one.

Midori has been on my wishlist since I watched the films, and even though she wears long sleeves, the shirt is white and the costume is mostly cotton and short, plus I crave a pair of red mary-janes since forever. It will also allow me to play with make-up, more than usual, as I will probably follow Rin Rin's tutorial.

So, about the costume, as I said, I already have the white shirt, but I need to get everything else. I have a dark blue bobbed wig, but unfortunatly it isn't dark enough, so I'll order a new one from Coscraft, which will also be much cheaper than Amewarashi's wig+twintails, and frankly, a breeze to style (I'm still not entirely converted into wig styling). As for fabrics, I just need a piece of midnight blue satin, for the bow, and the polka dot fabric. As it's quite unusual to find it in yellow with red polka dots, especially in larger sized polka dots, I plan to get it in white with red polka dots, and then dye it yellow with Dylon Dye. I will also have a new washing machine soon, so I will be able to do it quite easily at home.

Next week I plan to go to Baixa for a number of things, so I'll drop by Ouro Têxteis to see if they have it. If not, I found some at a nice pricepoint online, from Spain (where else to find polka dot fabric?). I'll order the socks, and the cuuutest patent red mary-janes from AliExpress, aswell as the basket. I just hope the shoes will fit, looks like a close call. I'll make the belt myself, I'm inheriting a bunch of belt buckles and I'll buy the leather strip at Domigos & Nogueira, so that's taken care of. For the wagasa, I'll get a white one from my local Chinese shop, and paint the red pattern on it. I also need plenty of red and green origami paper for the camellias, I guess I can get it from AliExpress too.

I think I'll also finally make some short white bloomers, to avoid having to wear tights (it's usually VERY HOT at Festa do Japão), for the chafing.

+ It's a simple costume I can whip up rather quickly, not spending a fortune on materials.

- I just hope the shoes will fit!

THE CUNNING PLAN

Try to buy any local items as soon as possible, and then order the others as soon as some money comes in.

Candy W. Ardlay - Uniform St. Paul's #9

the raw wig and tails, right out of the package

I've been thinking about the wig A LOT. First I thought about using Kinpatsu Cosplay's method, using the original wig net, resewing the wefts for the twin tails middle part, and adding a stiff structure to attach the tails. But, the more I think about it, the more I prefer Sarah Spaceman's helmet wig base method. My head has one of those shapes, where the wigs tend to slip away backwards, but in the past I tried a "vintage" wig, with a stiff base, and I remember it being very easy. It was a bobbed wig, so no balance or weight issues, but I put it on so easily, much like a helmet or a hat, that I think this will be my best bet.

I already have the wig: a medium length wig with bangs (no worries about those, as Candy's bangs are short) and two curly tails, from Coscraft, the wig head, wig head support and velvet wig band, from AliExpress, since June.

Since then, I searched for Fosshape, another thermoplastic, produced by Wonderflex, which looks much like drakalon, but after heated, it shrinks and becomes stiff. Perfect! Not so much, the price is veeery salty, and not for my purse. So I decided to make an experiment with stiff felt, maybe hardening it with wood glue. If it doesn't work, I only wasted €3 and a few hours of my free time.

the (burgundy) mock-up, the pattern, and the duct tape pattern

I started by pinning my hair down, as flat as possible, and wrapping it with clingfilm. Then, with duct tape, I covered one side of my head with it. With a Sharpie, I first traced the middle of my head, and then traced a line over my head's high curves, front to back. Lastly I traced my hairline, as best as I could, because duct tape isn't transparent.

the mock-up, front

 

the mock-up, back

I took the wrap off, cleaned up the lines and added registry marks, before cutting it out. Then I traced my patterns into my pattern paper, and cut it. As I was tracing it, I noticed there was still a bit of a curve on the side piece, so I cut up a dart, before tracing it. I grabbed some of the burgundy fabric I used for Hokuto's Mad Hatter jacket mock ups, and traced the pattern to it, twice, one of them mirrored, and adding some seam allowance all around, to make a mock up. I hand sewed it, using a running backstitch, to be quick, first the darts on the side pieces, then the centre seam, and, lastly, the sides to the centers.

the flat helmet

partially sewn helmet

I tried the mock up on my head, tested the fit and corrected the hairline, especially in the back. I corrected the paper pattern, just needed to place the sideburns better and add a bit in the back, not much. Using the corrected pattern, I traced it to the tan stiff felt, and cut it with a 5-8mm allowance, all around.

I grabbed some thicker thread, in the closest colour to the felt and wig, which turned out to be a bright yellow, which I don't remember buying, so I guess it also came from my friend's stash, from a few years ago, the same as the burgundy fabric. In the same order as the mock up, I started sewing the felted pieces together, but this time by overlapping the seams, with a backstitch for strength.

I'm happy with how it turned out, and it fits nicely, with a bit of extra space for the hair in the back.

+ I'm very happy with finding stiff felt in that "skin" colour, and, naturally with the beautiful Coscraft wigs. I also love the wig colour, a golden yellow, which is a more natural equivalent to Candy's bright orange yellow.

- Doing the clingfilm-duct tape method on your own head isn't easy, mostly because you can't see or feel the hairline. So, I'm afraid my own hair may be visible, especially on the nape. Oh well...

THE CUNNING PLAN

Start building and styling the wig.

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #84

trim and apliqués off

The Finishing Touches

I wanted to finish the needed alterations before finishing writing the thesis, but the Summer-long end writing marathon was so stressful, I barely sewn anything. In March, I took the jacket's skirt trim off, took off the apliqués, marked where I wanted to cut the hem, inhaled deeply, and cut it. Phew!

taking the plunge (cut)

Then marked the apliqués new positioning and slowly started sewing them. They're not 100% parallel to each other, slightly tapering outwards, which sort of gives the illusion they are. This time I did it in a production line method: 1st: loosely pinned them all in place; 2nd: porcupine pinned the 1st apliqué, and started sewing it, with a ladder stitch. Each time I reached a pin, I switched it to the next apliqué, and so on. I think it took me about a month to complete the apliqués, sewing for about 2 to 3 hours each time.

loosely pinning the apliqués 

Then I started sewing back the trim, on and off during the Summer, but I only finished sewing the trim last Monday.

Then it took me about two days to sew the buttons, mostly because one was dirty, so I needed to wait for it to dry, and I ended up just making 10 small buttons, but I needed 12 in total. 8 for the sleeves, 4 for the shoes. I also sewed a pentagon to the top of the back slit (it's only drawn in part of the manga illustrations) and replaced the back strap with the first one I made, which is nicer looking and wider, much like the new ones.

the cuff straps

the back mstrap and slit reinforcing pentagon

The final step was sewing the back of the right shoulder seam, as it tends to rip in that area (another patterning mistake - sleeves are my Nemesis).

Aaaaand... *drum roll*

the completed jacket

HOKUTO SUMERAGI IS 100% COMPLETED!

+ Phew! It's finally done!And I'm overall very happy with this costume. It's fairly well done, even though it took me very long, I mostly enjoyed making it, it has tons of pieces (12 in total), and it's tight but comfortable, I just can't wear it in the Summer.

- The time it took to be completed was far too long, but it's excusable with so many life changes in between: a pandemic, the thesis and the costume's final purpose, and moving house. There are some construction issues, especially in the jacket's shoulders and sleeves. The polyester taffeta against the skin is a mistake I'll never make again, but everything else, like the jacket's length, was corrected and I ended changing the gloves fabric to a knit, and making the teacup out of fabric, instead of 3D printing (which I'll eventually make someday).

THE END

Chocolat Meilleure - Picnic Dress #5

 

the only photo I took while wearing the costume, but missing
the pointy ears (I wore Lum's ears), and the hoop earrings

I'm writing a final post, to talk about some smaller details I took photos of, I didn't want to include in the other posts, since I adopted this costume piece by piece post format now.

First, the leg ribbons. I initially didn't order enough ribbon for the braid bows, and the legs, so I went to my local Chinese bazar and got extra grosgrain ribbon, and, for Festa do Japão em Lisboa, I wore the alternative grosgrain. I ordered an extra length of velvet ribbon, which I then wore for Fórum Fantástico. The stick glue held on very well both times, even in the swealteing heat. Great! Just the velvet ribbon left a bit of residue on my legs, and I haven't checked if it's damaged yet. I hope not. Need to wash them.

the pendant's inside

I wasn't planning on making the inside of the pendant just yet, but I had all the materials and, when I needed to wind down a bit, I made it in short stages.

I first traced the opening on a piece of paper, cut it, and adjusted it to fit the inside. Then I traced it onto a piece of cereal box cardboard, and cut it. Tested the fit, and when it was OK, I painted it with acrylic paint. As I don't have a pink, directly from the tube, I mixed a bit of crimson with white, and it was fine. I really didn't want to go downtown to buy a paint tube, to paint 4cm² of cardboard. Then, also because I temporarily didn't have Affinity Design installed, and wasn't in the mood to walk 30 mins to have a small design printed, I traced the gold design from an anime image of the pendant, and adapted it to the heart pattern I had traced before.

I chose a red ruby heart from my stash, to make the inside heart, and used some of the transparent crystals I bought for this (and many future crafts), to finalise the design. I traced the outer heart shape and the swirls, to a separate piece of paper, and carbon copied them to the back of a scrap of gold mirror vinyl (from Mimikyu's eyes). I patiently cut the swirls and the heart. I glued the ruby heart and the small crystals with superglue to the gold vinyl heart, but it didn't look convincing enough. There is a visible line around the gold heart shape in the anime design, so I cut a small length of thin gold wire from my stash, and shaped and glued it to the heart shape. I calculated the position by eye, took the backing off the gold vinyl, and glued it to the pink heart. Finally, with thin tweezers, I took the backing off the gold swirls, and postioned them in the pink heart, pressing to glue them on. The final step, before gluing the heart inside the pendant, with UHU glue, was to add a layer of glossy varnish, to set everything. Now my chocolat can catch her hearts!

As I said in a previous post, the hat doesn't fit properly on top of the wig. While my own hair is longer, I need to find another way to pin it to my head, so it doesn't add more bulk to my head, at least around the rim of the hat crown. I also think I will add a very thin wire to the hat's brim, so it stays in place, as it's quite floppy right now. Maybe, maaaaybe, if I find a similar cheap hat, in plain straw colour, I'll buy it for Chocolat. The same for the basket, if I ever find one of that style basket bags, which is a very 70's design and quite hard to find nowadays, for a good price, then I'll think more seriously about getting a new hat.

Since I first styled the wig, I changed how I pin the bangs, pinning them to the top, not to the sides, more like Chocolat herself usually wears. When I first wore this costume, I didn't wear the pointy ears, as I thought they wouldn't be visible, under the hat and wig. But I already have Lum's ears, so I wore them the second time around, and will wear them in the future. It's more fun! The ear hoops are comfortable and stay secure, but I need to take them off after some hours, I have sensitive ear lobes.

I think I will try to widen the sandal front straps a bit with the heat gun, they're comfortable, but I'd like for them not to be so snug.

Overall, I loved making and wearing this costume, it's probably one of those where I fell most comfortable wearing. Need to stop being antisocial, and have some decent photos taken.

I hereby declare the Chocolat - Picnic Dress FINISHED!