Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #68

front bias tape 50% done.

 

Started adding the bias tape to the jacket. First I cut about 6 or 7 6cm wide bias strips, out of the burgundy satin. Instead of sewing all the strips together in one long strip, I clipped all the pieces together, and tried to choose the strips closer to the length of each side, from corner to corner, as best as I could, so not to waste too much fabric. This is especially important for the front, topmost and most visible parts of the tape, as not to have any visible seams, except for the corners. I don't think I'll be able to have both bottom hems all in one piece each, but I'll try to keep the seams mostly to the back.

I pressed the first piece of tape, one of the fronts, using my widest bias tape gadget, but, because it's 1cm narrower than my actual tape, and the fabric is so slippery, that I really wasn't able to make even folds. Then I pinned it 4-5mm from the middle front edge of the jacket, to the right side, and, with the help of a gauge, measuring 1,5cm, I started sewing the tape to the jacket, with a backstitch. I stopped sewing when I reached about 6cm from the bottom hem, because I want the front to overlap the bottom. then I turned the tape, folded it over the edge, folded it again to the inside, much like a book dust cover, and started sewing the other edge, using an invisible stitch. When I reached the wide angle, where the bodice meets the skirt, I tried to fold it neatly, to the best of my abilities, although it didn't turn out as crisp as I wished. Then I realised I didn't need to fold the bias tape before sewing it, the gauge and pins are enough. So I didn't do it for the remaining tape.

After adding bias tape to both the front openings, I started adding it to the top, neckline opening. First I folded the tape in half, to find the sharp top corner. I sewed it diagonally to where the remaining seam will be, trying to have a neat corner. Then I started sewing the bias tape as previously, but pulling it a bit, so it won't wrinkle at the inner curve, and also to add a bit of tension to the neckline. I'm currently a bit over half way of the first seam, but it's starting to take shape!

+ Using the gauge makes it easy to keep a straight seam, while handsewing.

- It was a bit of a waste of time folding the bias tape before sewing, and made that side a little sloppier, although one doesn't notice a thing from the outside.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Finish sewing the bodice bias tape, trim the skirt and add the remaining bias tape to the bottom hem and back slit.