Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #51

Using the bias tape gadget for the first time.

Since the last post, I made a few smallish things: cut and folded a piece of bias tape for the hat, cut the hat bow pieces and started sewing the bias tape to the outer edge of the hat's brim.

About one year ago, knowing how much self made bias tape I was going to need for this costume, I ordered a cheap fake version of the Clover bias tape gadgets, in 5 sizes. It was time to use them! Unfortunately I need 6cm wide bias tape for this, and the largest is 5cm. First, I cut the 6cm strips of satin on the bias, and sewn them together with a tight backstitch. Then I pressed the seam open, and pressed the whole tape, after that, I followed the gadget's instructions. After folding the tape inside, I folded it in half and pressed. This gadget helps a lot, but my fabric is too thin and shifty, besides trying to make wider bias tape on a narrower gadget... but, instead of pressing the whole thing, out of the gadget's mouth, I just pressed the folds on each side, and then pressed everything nicely. The tape isn't 100% even, but I believe with a stiffer fabric and matching width, it would turn out fine.

The two bow pieces, in two fabrics. 

I'm using my usual method for the bow. Looking at the artwork and my hat, still pinned to the foam head, I eyed the bow's size. Because the satin is very soft and drapey, I cut an interlining out of the burgundy cotton I used for the mock ups. Two rectangles, a bigger one for the bow, a smaller for the knot. The bigger one will be folded in half, lengthwise, and sewn. Then both ends will be folded to the middle, and the middle will be bunched into a bow shape. The small rectangle will also be folded in half, lengthwise, and sewn. Then it will be wrapped around the bow's centre, and tacked to it. I'll show it in more detail when I make it.

bias tape sewing, phase 1.

Because of the uneven bias tape folding, I marked a line with pencil, a bit under 2cm from the edge, on the less visible side of the brim (the top) as a guide to sew the tape on evenly. I first sewed it, on the bottom and more visible side, with a backstitch. 

bias tape sewing, phase 2.

When I reached the joining part, I sewed both tape ends together, to the best of my abilities, with a backstitch. Then, I folded the tape over the brim's edge, and sewed it, with an invisible stitch, to the phase 1 stitches. Trimmed the now fraying edge a bit, and pressed everything thoroughly. 

+ It was the first time I used this gadget to make bias tape. I like it, makes the task much easier and quicker. Must try it with an easier fabric. Not much to add about the bow.
- I have to be extra careful with the bias tape making, so it won't be very uneven. On the hat's brim, one doesn't notice it very much, but on the longer jacket edges, it will be more noticeable.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Completely finish the hat, before switching to something else. Next, attaching the brim to the crown.