31.10.20

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #25

Due to the big turn in everybody's lives, due to the pandemic, I lost all my sewing mojo, I even struggled to sew doll's clothes. Being at home isn't a problem for me, but, in March, I was about to start a big job, which got postponed to September, and all the uncertainty took it's creative toll.
During these months, besides taking care of my mom and go grocery shopping, I only wanted to watch movies and TV series. The only really useful things I did, was apply for the Doctorate degree, the reason this blog exists, and make social masks, mostly for myself - I didn't want to spend my days hand sewing masks either -, also preparing for eventually to having to wear a mask every day in September. For that, I used mostly cotton fabric from my (usually doll) stash. In August and September I was finally busy with two jobs, in September out of the house, and then, at the end of September my mom moved house, and I naturally helped. No cosplay sewing or will to until now. But now, that I got used to the new studying schedule, have a clearer idea of what I have to do, and go back to sewing is one of the things I have to do for the research.
So, time to go back to my ruffly "cauliflower", and start logging about it. In the meantime, I decided to sew the rest of the costume by hand, as I clearly have the time - no events any time soon -, I enjoy it, it's more "historically accurate" (although I'm hand sewing, I'm not following "original practice"), and may be interesting in a research point of view. The only things that will go in the machine are the scalloped hem embroidery, and maybe the tulle petticoat.

shirt's collar: 1/2 reverse; 1/2 turned

This was a tough one! I made a first attempt at turning the collar back in February, but I was still in Caldas, and I didn't take my fray check bottle with me. Even the best quality silk taffeta would surely be problematic in this collar design. So, at the risk of staining the fabric - fray check tends to stain delicate fabrics, like satin, organza or taffeta -, I sealed the fabric with it along the scalloped edges, and then, very patiently, started turning the scallops with the help of a thick crochet needle. To make the pointy edges clean, I first folded them along the seams, on the reverse side, and helped ease the point out, by carefully using a pin. Ity looks better on camera then in real life.

+ Fray check makes the seams sturdier, and helps them not to fray.
- It was really difficult to turn the collar neatly, the fusible interfacing got loose and I had to baste it in place, so I could turn the scallops. The neater side is on the outside, but the underside unfortunately isn't as nice.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Press it very well and sew it to the collar stand, press again and sew it to the shirt.

[written in 1.12.2020]

No comments:

Post a Comment

Lengthy Introduction Post

In September 2020 I started my PhD in Fine Arts , specializing in Multimedia Arts , at Lisbon's Fine Arts College , FBAUL . I've bee...