15.10.19

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #6

1:6th scale jacket pattern pieces

 

1:6th scale mock-up

Because of the obvious 18th century feel of this jacket, I took my "bibles" from the shelf, Patterns of Fashion and Patterns of Fashion 1, by Janet Arnold, and loosely copied the shape of an 18th century women's jacket for the bodice and skirt, and 16th century slashed sleeves. I also searched "slashed sleeves" on Google, and found the YouTuber Morgan Donner, who does historical costuming, focusing mostly on Medieval and Renaissance costumes. Through one of her tutorials I found out how this type of sleeves were constructed,;the outer sleeve is just one piece.

Mostly to know how wide the jacket's skirt would be, I made a 1:6th scale mock up of the jacket, first with a circle skirt. Then I pinned the excess width on the side down, so the shape would be closer to the artwork, and I ended up with a 1/2 circle skirt, cut inn 4 pieces (there's a slash in the back of the jacket). I used Antonieta, a Blythe doll body I use to make patterns a fit my doll's clothes on.

Back during the summer, a nice friend decided to pass on a stash of her grandmother's fabrics to those who'd eventually use them, I was one of the lucky chosen, brought back two big bags of fabrics, embroidery threads, ribbons, elastic, embroidery hoops and so on. In the stash there were two big lengths of new bedsheet cotton, 100% cotton, in burgundy. It's perfect for mock-ups, that's what I used in this small mock-up, and i'll be using in the real size mock-up of the jacket's bodice and skirt.

+ making a mock-up in smaller scale to find out the proportions is a good idea because one saves fabric and it can be sewn very quickly. Besides, the model doesn't complain.
- I can't find any negative points in this.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Make a 1:1 scale mock-up of the jacket's bodice and skirt.

[written in 28.11.2020]

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