7.12.25

Candy W. Ardlay - Uniform St. Paul's #9

the raw wig and tails, right out of the package

I've been thinking about the wig A LOT. First I thought about using Kinpatsu Cosplay's method, using the original wig net, resewing the wefts for the twin tails middle part, and adding a stiff structure to attach the tails. But, the more I think about it, the more I prefer Sarah Spaceman's helmet wig base method. My head has one of those shapes, where the wigs tend to slip away backwards, but in the past I tried a "vintage" wig, with a stiff base, and I remember it being very easy. It was a bobbed wig, so no balance or weight issues, but I put it on so easily, much like a helmet or a hat, that I think this will be my best bet.

I already have the wig: a medium length wig with bangs (no worries about those, as Candy's bangs are short) and two curly tails, from Coscraft, the wig head, wig head support and velvet wig band, from AliExpress, since June.

Since then, I searched for Fosshape, another thermoplastic, produced by Wonderflex, which looks much like drakalon, but after heated, it shrinks and becomes stiff. Perfect! Not so much, the price is veeery salty, and not for my purse. So I decided to make an experiment with stiff felt, maybe hardening it with wood glue. If it doesn't work, I only wasted €3 and a few hours of my free time.

the (burgundy) mock-up, the pattern, and the duct tape pattern

I started by pinning my hair down, as flat as possible, and wrapping it with clingfilm. Then, with duct tape, I covered one side of my head with it. With a Sharpie, I first traced the middle of my head, and then traced a line over my head's high curves, front to back. Lastly I traced my hairline, as best as I could, because duct tape isn't transparent.

the mock-up, front
 
the mock-up, back

I took the wrap off, cleaned up the lines and added registry marks, before cutting it out. Then I traced my patterns into my pattern paper, and cut it. As I was tracing it, I noticed there was still a bit of a curve on the side piece, so I cut up a dart, before tracing it. I grabbed some of the burgundy fabric I used for Hokuto's Mad Hatter jacket mock ups, and traced the pattern to it, twice, one of them mirrored, and adding some seam allowance all around, to make a mock up. I hand sewed it, using a running backstitch, to be quick, first the darts on the side pieces, then the centre seam, and, lastly, the sides to the centers.

the flat helmet

partially sewn helmet

I tried the mock up on my head, tested the fit and corrected the hairline, especially in the back. I corrected the paper pattern, just needed to place the sideburns better and add a bit in the back, not much. Using the corrected pattern, I traced it to the tan stiff felt, and cut it with a 5-8mm allowance, all around.

I grabbed some thicker thread, in the closest colour to the felt and wig, which turned out to be a bright yellow, which I don't remember buying, so I guess it also came from my friend's stash, from a few years ago, the same as the burgundy fabric. In the same order as the mock up, I started sewing the felted pieces together, but this time by overlapping the seams, with a backstitch for strength.

I'm happy with how it turned out, and it fits nicely, with a bit of extra space for the hair in the back.

+ I'm very happy with finding stiff felt in that "skin" colour, and, naturally with the beautiful Coscraft wigs. I also love the wig colour, a golden yellow, which is a more natural equivalent to Candy's bright orange yellow.

- Doing the clingfilm-duct tape method on your own head isn't easy, mostly because you can't see or feel the hairline. So, I'm afraid my own hair may be visible, especially on the nape. Oh well...

THE CUNNING PLAN

Start building and styling the wig.


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In September 2020 I started my PhD in Fine Arts , specializing in Multimedia Arts , at Lisbon's Fine Arts College , FBAUL . I've bee...