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| the sleeve mock-up |
I've been so busy finishing the thesis (it's almost done, now being reviewed by my coordinator), that I didn't have time to post Chocolat's dress, and it was the saga it wasn't supposed to be.
I already had the fabric, I bought it to make a dress for myself, but then realised I wanted a twill, instead of a poplin for said dress, and got "stuck" with 4m of black poplin. Not stuck for long, as that's what made me go ahead with Chocolat's dress.
Using the burgundy poplin my friend Ana gave me, I drafted two sleeve patterns, as I always have issues with sleeves. The first mock-up was too voluminous, so I redesigned it, taking off a bit of volume, especially on top. Eventually I took a bit too much on top, but I still like the final shape.
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| the cut dress |
Based on my mid-length flower dress, I drafted the top part pattern, and the skirt, as that was the basic shape I was aiming for, a slightly loose fit, with no closures, just a slip-on dress, but with pockets!
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| the top piece |
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| the top piece, with the sleeves |
Sewing the dress was quite easy and straightforward, I'm just not entirely happy with the neck opening bias tape, I always get the angles wrong. I wanted to sew it quickly, so I didn't pay enough attention to that... and the aforementioned sleeve tops, which should have a bit more volume, and one notices the hasty sewing. I also added little ribbon straps, with a snap, to attach the shoulders to my bra and hold the shoulders in place, as the neckline is quite wide, with a loose fit.
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| the full dress, still no bottom pleated ruffle |
Fortunately I cut the skirt full length, and, as I didn't have time to deal with the pleated ruffle before the Festa do Japão em Lisboa, where I wanted to wear the costume, I hemmed it, and wore it without the ruffle to Festa do Japão. I used the invisible hem stitch, the "heartbeat" stitch, on my sewing machine, and I loved it. Onde has to go slow and steady, but the results are quite fine. Admittedly, this poplin is forgiving, and although the stitches are somewhat visible, the black thread on the black cotton is hardly visible 30cm apart.
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| pleating with a fork |
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| the pleated ruffle (the reverse side) |
The problems really started with the ruffles. I had enough fabric left for 3x the hem length, which should be enough, but it really wasn't. I first pleated the ruffle using the fork method - you slip the fabric between one fork prong, twist the fork, and you have a very nice and quick 2,5cm pleat - but when I was pinning it to the skirt, it wasn't enough, I needed at least one more meter...
I quickly went to Tavares & Tavares to buy a bit more (in late August), and, oddly, it was sold out, it's never sold out! They were having sales, they never had general sales before, as they're speciality is basic fabrics, which never get out of season, and the top shelves were empty... The clerk told me maybe by mid-September they'd get new fabrics in, as then the manufacturers were closed for Summer holidays... more on this in another post. Well, I couldn't wait, I was very, very busy, and wanted to wear this costume at Fórum Fantástico, in early October, for my presentation about the Mahou Shoujo.
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| the finished dress |
I gathered all the bigger fabric scraps, managed to find one about 60cm wide. It wasn't enough. So, I unpicked all the pleat stitching, and decided to cheat the pleats, making the inner fold a bit shorter, by 3-4mm. But I couldn't use the fork method again, as it's not the most precise, and I was short on fabric... So I started the painstaking hand pleating method, with a cheat gauge. I first hand pressed every fold, pinned it, and, after pinning about 5 or 6 pleats, I hand basted them on top and bottom. It took me a while, a long while... I finished pleating days before Fórum Fantástico, while writing the thesis, making the Mahou Shoujo Powerpoint presentation. And, when finally I put it in the machine to sew it to the skirt, my sewing machine started to act up, and wouldn't sew properly. So, the next few days, I finished the pleats hem (fortunately just the added panel), and hand sewed it to the skirt, with a backstitch. I just had enough time to press everything the evening before. Need to overcast that seam, but I'll try to see what's wrong with the machine first, and sew it in the machine later, it's not a pressing matter now.
The dress is very comfortable, this costume is overall comfortable, just the shoes start getting a bit uncomfortable after a while, especially if the weather is very hot, as it was both times I wore this costume. The hat doesn't fit very well over the wig, and, as I have longer hair than usual right now, it also adds unwanted bulk. I guess it's the universe telling me to cut it! Strangely, the leg velvet ribbons felt like knee socks, but it only disturbed a bit, by the end of the day. I didn't take any proper photos, as usual...
+ This is one of my most comfortable cosplays, and I'll definitely wear it again. Besides, Chocolat is a lot of fun!
- Apart from the pleated ruffle fabric miscalculation, all the other mistakes were stupid mistakes, originated by the rush. Mental note: improve time management!
THE CUNNING PLAN
Just overcasting the pleats seam, and remake the pendant cord with a more resistant thread, like torçal, which will also make it a little bit wider.
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