16.11.22

Yuuko Ichihara - Foxy Lady #21

thin French seam

I sewed the only sleeve seam with a thin, about 5mm wide, French seam, leaving an opening at the bottom, to be able to put the sleeve through the hand.

hand sewn rolled hem

Then I hemmed it, except the collar and cuffs seams. I sewed a thin rolled hem by hand, so that there is no visible top stitching. I hemmed the front and back underarm, the side seam and the cuff opening. They still need to be ironed flat.

collar frills

Meanwhile I also hand sewed the collar frills. I first counted how many visible spikes there were in the picture. There were seven. But I decided to make twelve (6 + 6), as it's an even count. Then I divided the collar length by twelve, and drafted an equilateral triangle, with that measurement.

I traced the triangle twelve times, making twelve lozenges and cut them on the satin. Then I started to handsew them into triangles. Why didn't I machine sew them? The fabric is rather flimsy and slippery, I have more control hand sewing those small pieces, and it's quick enough not to put a toll on the over all timing.

the cuffs and collar

I also traced and cut the collar and cuffs both in the satin and the stiff interfacing. It is fusible interfacing, so I ironed it to one of the cuffs/collar pieces.

And in between, I keep embroidering the gold.

+ It is going really well, and I like the no visible stitching on the hems. It looks more sophisticated. 

- Although I became rather quick hand sewing rolled hems, it still takes some time to sew those.

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Finish the sleeves/blouse as soon as possible, so I can start with the corset, and then the dress.

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In September 2020 I started my PhD in Fine Arts , specializing in Multimedia Arts , at Lisbon's Fine Arts College , FBAUL . I've bee...