Yuuko Ichihara - Foxy Lady #19

sleeve paper pattern

I finally drafted the sleeves, on IKEA Måla paper. I was a bit confused by the length at first, so I cut the paper a bit short, but then I double measured it, added a strip of paper before cutting, and it's fine now. I only drafted half of the sleeve because it's already in two pieces, but the collar part is a bit shorter in the front.

the cut sleeves in the white satin

Then I proceeded to trace and cut the sleeves on the silky satin, with my grafite pen. I left around 2,5cm seam allowance, as usual. The seam will be a French seam, and all the open parts will be a hand sewn thin rolled hem, like in silk scarves. I thought about sewing them by machine, but there are a few reasons that made me choosing doing them by hand:

1. I don't like visible top stitching in this kind of silky fabric, especially in this chic "blouse" style.

2. I don't really trust my roll hem foot, well, my ability to properly work with the roll hem foot, and I do it fairly quickly by hand.

Unfortunately, I forgot the collar and cuffs pattern at the Batcave and didn't bring a piece of fabric with me, so I didn't cut them. I also forgot to buy some interfacing, and I'm not sure I have enough leftover from the Hokuto shirt. I also realised I forgot to buy the white lining, for the petticoat, so I need to go downtown soon to get both.

+ This process is now flowing, although I'm tackling more than one piece to make at the time, which isn'tmy usual method. I need to focus on the embroidery and the white satin hems, which are what will take longer to make.

- It's a little bit unfortunate that I forgot to buy those basic things, I wasn't planning to go back downtown I the next few months. Oh well...

This is the second time using my new cutting table, two IKEA Brör carts, that I will attach to each other with screws, after I painted the studio walls. I need them separated for now, or they won't fit through the door. But this is a blessing, makes me work much quicker, makes the task easier and more fun, while listening to the radio. 

THE CUNNING PLAN 

Sew the sleeves and hem them. After cutting the cuffs and collar, attach them and finish the sleeves.

Mental note: bring the white scraps, to make the triangular collar ruffles. DO NOT FORGET THE COLLAR RUFFLES!