2.3.22

Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #79

the cut bloomers

Last week it was mostly finishing what I could, to wear the costume to the Cosplay Photoshoot. I will try to update everyday what I made. Because time was very limited, and I didn't want to con crunch, I decided not to make a few items yet. Not finish the gloves, not make the smaller buckles (for the shoes and jacket cuffs), and a few finishings on the hat and jacket. Also, the 3D teacup and saucer will be finished at a later time.

I made the patterns previously, but only cut the bloomers just before sewing them. First I marked and cut the second ruffle, at 11cm height × the fabric width (145cm). then I folded the fabric in half, to determine where I had to cut the bloomers panels, to add the extra fabric. I marked where it would be cut, at about 15cm, in the pattern, folded it, and cut it on each fabric, leaving the top part for the new taffeta. I had to experiment a bit with the lengths, to find where to cut it.

Then I sort of tested the machine satin stitch on a scrap of the taffeta. It didn't work, I later found out why, the stitch length was set to 0, so the machine wouldn't go anywhere... Realising I needed to test it more, to make the scalloped embroidery, I decided to roll hem both the skirt and bloomers. But, the messy person that I am, when I took the machine to be fixed, I put all the extra small pieces in a plastic bag, which I didn't return to the machine, when I got it back. And now I don't remember where I put them... So, I just made a tiny zigzag stitch on the bottom edge, and that's the hem for now. I first hemmed the skirt, then the extra bloomers ruffles, after sewing their loop shut. Then I first joined both top and bottom bloomer pieces together, with a French seam. Then I followed my usual trousers order: first joined the front and back seam, and then the inner thighseams together. All the seams are French seams, thoroughly ironed before joining the next seam. When all the bloomer seams were sewn, I hemmed each leg, like the ruffle and the skirt. Then I hand basted the ruffles to their place in each leg. Using my brand new and very practical ruffle foot, I gathered the bloomers legs where the ruffle was basted to the leg. Twice, because once didn't gather it enough. The bloomers are still a bit wide, but because I'll not be adding elastic, I decided to add two ribbons to the gathered part, to adjust them with bows. Then I grabbed the thinner white satin ribbon, the same I used for the skirt's ruffle, and top stitched it on top of the gathered part. Then I added the ribbon ties. The final part was to fold the wider white satin ribbon in half, and sew it to the top of the bloomers, as a tube for the elastic. I inserted the elastic, once more a repurposed elastic from old leggings, sewn it together and the bloomers were done.

the finished bloomers

skirt, petticoat, bloomers

+ It took me about one day and a half (around 12 hours) to make the bloomers.

- The legs are still a bit too wide, maybe I'll unpick the ribbon and gather the legs a bit more. The pencil markings are still noticeable, I hope they'll wash out in the machine.

THE CUNNING PLAN

Finish the jacket and beta-test the whole outfit at the Cosplay Photoshoot

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