Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #36

the basic finished jacket bodice, on top of the shirt

Only on the outer layer, I cut the seam allowance where I marked it from the pattern, at the top neck opening. This will be finished with bias tape, I only cut it with a seam allowance (on the 3 layers) so it wouldn't fray much while I was manipulating it. I first sewed the front opening seams, outer fabric and lining, good side to good side, with a backstitch. Then, I turned both to the good side, and sandwiched the inner layer in between.

I pinned all three layers together where the boning is, and sewed all layers ans close as I could to the boning, with a running stitch, on both sides. After that, I carefully pinned all three layers together, on a flat surface, along the top neck opening. As I already cut the seam allowance on the top layer, but not on the other two layers, I left that excess fabric on top. I joined all the layers with a running stitch, about 1cm from the outer layer's rim. Then I cut the excess fabric on the inner and lining layers.

cut the excess from the inner layer and lining

+ my plan worked, I'm really happy how everything worked out together, with minimal wrinkling. I'm also very happy how, even though I only eyed it, the proportions of the shirt collar vs. the jacket's top opening are very near to those on the artwork.
- the three layers didn't match perfectly as desired, all three fabrics stretch differently, there is some easing near the straps.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Sew the inlaid pockets to the skirt, sew the skirt sides, on the outer fabric and lining, and baste the skirt to its lining. Only then, sew it to the bodice.

[written in 4.12.2020 - I caught up!]