Hokuto Sumeragi - Mad Hatter #22

glued the fusible interfacing to the collar and cuffs

I ironed the fusible interfacing to the collar and cuffs. I hate this stuff, I don't know why I opted to use this, maybe because it's the only woven interfacing at the store, and because it's quicker. Still, I made a huge mistake, I cut the collar in the taffeta on the bias, and I cut the interfacing on the straight grain... I just hope the collar won't get wonky in the end.

sewing French seams

Then I started sewing the skirt, with French seams, which, in Portuguese, are called 'English seams', haha!

I also started sewing the shirt. First I sewed the bosom darts, then the side seams, with French seams, the same for the shoulders. Then I start the sleeves, the seam with French seams, and the cuff. For the cuff, first I sewn bias tape, from the same fabric, where the opening will be, and cut the opening. Then I make a small pleat on the opposite side, and then I sew the cuff to the sleeve. Later I'll finish the bias tape at the opening by hand, for a neat finish, and sew the inside seam of the cuff also by hand. I could do an invisible stitch at the machine, but I prefer doing these by hand. If it were a more casual shirt, I'd probaly top stitch it. Finally I sew the sleeves to the shirt's body, and make a zig-zag stitch on the hem, so it doesn't fray.

+ The skirt is easy, and French seams help make a neat finish on delicate fabrics.
- I really dislike fusible interfacing, it tends to unglue after a few washes, and this one didn't want to glue to the fabric. Besides, I cut the collar interfacing on a different grain to the collar, that's a tailoring mistake I hate making. Things tend to get wonky if you make mistakes like this.

THE CUNNING PLAN
Sew wide satin ribbon, folded in half, lengthwise, to the skirt's waist, to make casing for the elastic. Mark and gather the frill, and finish the gather with narrow satin ribbon on top.

[written in 30.11.2020]